Disco 2 how to remove rear radius arms easily

gstuart said:

then having to struggle preloading the wishbone before doing the new nuts / bolts back up

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Your man on lrtime didn't preload did he? Think his new bushes lasted less than 12months. A case of jacking the arm up til hub is at ride height? How many recip blades did you go thru??

1988smithy said:

Your man on lrtime didn't preload did he? Think his new bushes lasted less than 12months. A case of jacking the arm up til hub is at ride height? How many recip blades did you go thru??

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funny enough I saw that where he is rebuilding the D3, by just torquing up the top knuckle bearing and left the other 2 x loose , unless of course it was the earlier occasion when he didn’t pre load them

think I went through around 15 x blades as didn’t realise at first the bolts were toughened steel

also seen some that forget to out the bump stop plastic insert into the wishbone buses as in the picture , one saving grace was getting the bush extractor kit for the upper knuckle bushes , rest came pre installed in the wishbones

I got 21 and 24 mm spanner’s from halford. I have removed the bolt to chassis, it should stay there before I loose bolts to axle, the rear bolt has room to use break bar. I use Jack to lift the bar, the bar has been bent but nothing happened.

Has the term we may need a bigger boat bar come to you yet .

Perhaps a 3/4 drive socket and bar may be worth investing in. We all only work on LRs so we can have loads of tools dont we? Its a man thing, bit like handbags and wimmins.

J

marjon said:

Has the term we may need a bigger boat bar come to you yet .

Perhaps a 3/4 drive socket and bar may be worth investing in. We all only work on LRs so we can have loads of tools dont we? Its a man thing, bit like handbags and wimmins.

J

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Ahh….the tool addiction affliction. Incurable I’m afraid.
TBH, the images above don’t show any heavy corrosion and I’m surprised it’s taking so much effort to shift these !!

Your defo turning it the right way??

meego said:

Or get one of these.
View attachment 293556

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Lives.....Learns....

mot guy told me that I need to change it, it will fail next year. Anyway only whack conquer them.

Kaijun said:

I got 21 and 24 mm spanner’s from halford. I have removed the bolt to chassis, it should stay there before I loose bolts to axle, the rear bolt has room to use break bar. I use Jack to lift the bar, the bar has been bent but nothing happened.View attachment 293585View attachment 293586

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It’s worth hitting the bolt with a hammer when the bar is lifted with the jack. It could shock the bolt free.

I have on occasion in a situation like this ground part of the nut away without touching the bolt thread, leaving enough to still grip with a 6 sided socket. It both weakens the nuts grip, and heats it up. If that fails, change the grinding disc to a cutting disc

Here is a problem, rear bolt to axle is not sliding out for watts linkage on the way? It seems to me bolt head should be at outside. But all rear bolts are fastened same way, driver side rear bolt has clear space. How did you guys handle this?

Kaijun said:

Here is a problem, rear bolt to axle is not sliding out for watts linkage on the way? It seems to me bolt head should be at outside. But all rear bolts are fastened same way, driver side rear bolt has clear space. How did you guys handle this?View attachment 293607

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Have you got it jacked up on the axle ?? If so, jack it up on the chassis and let the axle drop.

meego said:

Have you got it jacked up on the axle ?? If so, jack it up on the chassis and let the axle drop.

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For safety, I have jacked both up, near the bolt to chassis is good jack point?

Kaijun said:

For safety, I have jacked both up, near the bolt to chassis is good jack point?

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You need a good set of axle stands long enough to support the chassis only. I think you need to let the axle fully drop and hopefully that will give the bolt clearance to come out.

meego said:

You need a good set of axle stands long enough to support the chassis only. I think you need to let the axle fully drop and hopefully that will give the bolt clearance to come out.

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This

meego said:

You need a good set of axle stands long enough to support the chassis only. I think you need to let the axle fully drop and hopefully that will give the bolt clearance to come out.

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Sorry I meant stand point

marjon said:

Has the term we may need a bigger boat bar come to you yet .

Perhaps a 3/4 drive socket and bar may be worth investing in. We all only work on LRs so we can have loads of tools dont we? Its a man thing, bit like handbags and wimmins.

J

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Got too many tools then, she has 1 normal handbag, 1 holiday handbag.

MJI said:

Got too many tools then, she has 1 normal handbag, 1 holiday handbag.

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J

I got rear bolt out, but front one is at trick position, also blocked by something on axle, need a bit more room

Kaijun said:

I got rear bolt out, but front one is at trick position, also blocked by something on axle, need a bit more room View attachment 293624

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Mate. That rear drop link bracket is welded to the axle. So that bolt must come out !! How else would they have got it in
And your wheels are still on the ground ?? Not that dropping your axle will help in this instance.