Disco 2 how to remove rear radius arms easily

I am trying to replace all radius arm bushes. I started from passenger side rear one, found no enough room to use socket to remove front nut to axle for rear damper on the way. I don't see disco manual and any info mentioned removal of the damper. When I undid the bolt to chassis, I had to use socket + double extensions+break bar, 230nm+ is high for me to loose it by short spanner wrench under car. the front bolt is also not accessible by socket, it seems spanner wrench is only choice for it. I hope to use socket on nut side for easy job. The manual says just unscrew it (see pic). I am not sure if any problem to refit the damper. Can someone please advise me of the best way to handle rear arms bolts.

It was a few years ago but I just used spanners. I did slip a length of steel tube over the spanner to crack them off tho

Bit confused? Are you removing the radius arm (as it says in your thread!) Or trying to take off your Shocks as shown in your picture attached to your thread?

Kev

Badger688 said:

Bit confused? Are you removing the radius arm (as it says in your thread!) Or trying to take off your Shocks as shown in your picture attached to your thread?

Kev

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Hes having to take the shocks off to get to radius arm bolts I think

I've just looked at mine! Yes! the nuts and bolts are a pain to get too! But it is doable! But I can not see why you would need to take the shocks off! The radius arm bolts are separate from the shocks! Yes! They use the same steel attached to the axle!

A bit more 'Elbow Grease' is required to remove the Bolts. Breaker bar on the side that easy to get too! And holding spanner (if needed) on the nut closer to the shock! Use lots of 'penetrating oil'
And the use of Axle Stands is a must?

Please see: https://youtube.com/@4WDUK For some insight and instruction!

Kev

I saw some youtube disco 2 has clear access space near bolts , but mine has some obstacles. Maybe they are basic model with no ACE and SLS.

Please take a picture!

Worth a thousand words!!

If someone else has/had the same problem? They could help?

Kev

Badger688 said:

I've just looked at mine! Yes! the nuts and bolts are a pain to get too! But it is doable! But I can not see why you would need to take the shocks off! The radius arm bolts are separate from the shocks! Yes! They use the same steel attached to the axle!

A bit more 'Elbow Grease' is required to remove the Bolts. Breaker bar on the side that easy to get too! And holding spanner (if needed) on the nut closer to the shock! Use lots of 'penetrating oil'
And the use of Axle Stands is a must?

Please see: https://youtube.com/@4WDUK For some insight and instruction!

Kev

Click to expand...

Yes, if you are superman, these are not problem. How can use socket on the front bolt and nut sides?

If you can not fit sockets to any of them! You will need to use a spanner! With a steel pole as an extension! (I.e. Homemade Breaker Bar!)

Are you using a short socket on your breaker??

Kev

Badger688 said:

If you can not fit sockets to any of them! You will need to use a spanner! With a steel pole as an extension! (I.e. Homemade Breaker Bar!)

Are you using a short socket on your breaker??

Kev

Click to expand...

Thats how I did it, length of box section

Slip a spanner on 'em and give it a push with ya foot or slip a steel tube over the spanner or give the spanner a whack with a mallet to shock it loose

The latter can heed some interesting results so be careful

I can try spanner’s tomorrow. Since the bolts to axle have no load, hope it is not too tight.

Hi

have found the following helpful to remove seized or very tight nuts and bolts when I done my D3 suspension wishbones etc

1) wire brush then apply plenty of Penetrating spray every day a week before commencing work
2) plumbers butane blow torch to heat up seized bolts
3) dremel fitted with a flexible shaft and thin cutting blades , very useful to cut the nut in half, knock it off so just have the bolt left
4) long spanners , enclosed a picture where a standard spanner is put on top to show scale
5) impact wrench where access is possible with some uj’s , extension bar etc
6) very carefully using a bottle jack under the end of the spanner , ensuring that the vehicle isn’t lifted whilst putting pressure and heat on the end of the spanner
7) putting a spanner on the end of another one to give u more leverage
8) breaker bar
9) recip saw for very awkward , seized nuts / bolts
10) eat 3 x shredded wheats before attempting to u do tight bolts , lol

for assembly a torque wrench is a must , if u can’t get that on the nuts / bolts ensure the bolt is done up to the FT setting , lol

alas some of the D3 suspension arms needed to be tightened to around 350nm , long bar or toque wrench will really help

hope that helps a little

Kaijun said:

I can try spanner’s tomorrow. Since the bolts to axle have no load, hope it is not too tight.

Click to expand...

If you don’t have a tube that will go over the spanner, use another ring spanner and hook it onto the jaw of the spanner you are using as an extension.

Or get one of these.

Looks like I need to go shopping again

Kev

Badger688 said:

Looks like I need to go shopping again

Kev

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I know the feeling. I got one a while back and it has come in handy a few times.

gstuart said:

some of the D3 suspension arms needed to be tightened to around 350nm , long bar or toque wrench will really help

Click to expand...

Bollock tight

Cuz you risk popping one

1988smithy said:

Bollock tight

Cuz you risk popping one

Click to expand...

indeed FT, lol

alas had to use a recip saw to cut all of them out , yep u guessed it the rear upper wishbones , then having to struggle preloading the wishbone before doing the new nuts / bolts back up

Badger688 said:

Looks like I need to go shopping again

Kev

Click to expand...

can never have too many tools, lol