How do i replace the Intercooler hose?

Hi great site!! I have a 2006 freelander td4 and just went for service, a cut in the intercooler pipe was discovered and was leaking oil, the air filter is also with oil, bit of black smoke through the exhaust too. I was quoted $500 to replace it and clean the engine.. I think thats too expensive and was thinking it would not be that difficult to do it myself, any simple instruction and cautions i could follow?? I would really appreciate any help!! One other thing was will it do any bad damage if i drive it to buy the spare parts??

tis easy as peas to replace, hardest bit is the jubilee clip nearest the intercooler, bit of a fiddkle.

long hose is about £30 to buy, short one about £9.

Would take no more than an hour tops.

As for cleaning the engine, buy some gunk or jizer, works a treat.

you could drive it, depending on how far you have to go. I made a temporary repair with a coke can, some gaffer tape and some cable ties.

is it going to leak out couple of litres of oil when i take the old hose out? thanks for the advice mate!!

I was quoted $500 to replace it

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:boom:

is it going to leak out couple of litres of oil when i take the old hose out?

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no ..
might be a few drops .. but it's not an oil passage .. just pressurised air
from the turbo ..

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IF a lot of oil Does come out .. that would be a sign all is not well with the turbo seals probably
however IF that were the case .. you'd know it by having loads of smoke from the exhaust
if not a runwaway engine ( when it wont turn off .. and continues to run on the engine oil )

for that reason .. check the crankcase ventillation valve and 'filter' ( see next post )
'cause if that gets clogged up .. it puts pressure on the turbo oil seals ..
can result in an expensive repair job ..

replacing the hose connected to the intercooler :
make sure the clip sits behind the lip on the intercooler pipe
if not .. it might disconnect ..
yes it's a bit of a pain to tighten that particular clip ..
but with a long drive extension for the socket or screwdriver .. it's much much easier

when you put the new hose on .. add some protection where it rubs against the
air inlet tubing front fixing screw .. left hand side ..

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when you replace the air filter ..
check out the crankcase ventilation valve / filter assembly ..
change the small filter ( works as an oil separator ) ..
clean the valve with some white spirit ..
or preferably ..
install the bmw vortex type oils separator in place of the filter ..
to do that you might need to file a small notch in the bmw replacement part
( a small needle file does the job )
don't ignore cleaning / servicing that crankcase ventillation assembly ..

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btw .. replacing the intercooler hoses with silicone ones be a good idea ..

and while your doing that ..
find the turbo vent filter 'n change it ..
be a small filter that looks like an old type in-line fuel filter
sits at the back of the engine .. left hand side ..
and .. only one end is connected to a small hose ..
the other ends vents to the open-air

thanks for the instructions mate!! u r a legend!! going shopping tomorrow!

Make sure that when it was serviced they replaced the crankcase breather/Pcv filter. If they didn't get it done or change it for the BMW upgraded cyclone unit.

do your self a favor do not buy the standard turbo hose try those from pdh the silicone ones and buy the t clips as well they are on here somewhere I did and what a difference my car feels as though she is young and sprity again also with the old jubilee clips they are useless when I took my old pipes off i found it had been leeking past them and they were tight the trouble is they are to thin for that kind of job and while you are at it do a full service on all filters -crankcase turbo vent air and oil with new oil after two weeks with my new pipes I have not mesured yet but I am sure I am getting more mile per tank than before and the engin seems smoother

here's a thread regarding silicone intercooler hose :

http://www.landyzone.co.uk/lz/f9/silicone-hoses-td4-174530.html

~~

the crankcase breather :

http://www.landyzone.co.uk/lz/f9/bmw-crankcase-breather-170050.html

~~

related info:

ROVER 75 MGZT SERVICING

~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~

worth reading :

Symptoms - Bell Engineering

( i.e. use same make / model / type / .. etc .. tyres all around )

related lz thread :
http://www.landyzone.co.uk/lz/f9/oil-leak-rear-diff-breather-73796.html

The lower hose clip can be unscrewed using a small BA spanner, bit fiddly but no way on mine could you get any kind of screwdriver on.

use the correct tool.

7mm Hose/Jubilee Clip Hex Nut Driver, Flexible Shaft | eBay

The Mad Hat Man said:

use the correct tool.

7mm Hose/Jubilee Clip Hex Nut Driver, Flexible Shaft | eBay

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Got one, won't fit as you cant get to the head of the jubbly clip as the body work stops you. No problem when you refit as you can position the clip in a better position.

1/4 drive socket set is handy for hard to get a hose clips 6mm and 7mm are most used sizes on lrs

jamesmartin said:

1/4 drive socket set is handy for hard to get a hose clips 6mm and 7mm are most used sizes on lrs

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You can't get to the head of the clip unless it's already been repositioned so a socket won't fit on only an open ender or ring spanner.

nickcc said:

You can't get to the head of the clip unless it's already been repositioned so a socket won't fit on only an open ender or ring spanner.

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I agree - very fiddly and awkward to get the original off - LandRover having a laugh - again!

Great for removing skin from one's knuckles.

S.

originally, I used a combination of screwdriver and pliers to get the awkward one undone, then just made sure I repositioned it when I replaced it.

I bought a flex drive nut spinner from poundland of all places, and it's perfect for the job.

Optimus Prime said:

originally, I used a combination of screwdriver and pliers to get the awkward one undone, then just made sure I repositioned it when I replaced it.

I bought a flex drive nut spinner from poundland of all places, and it's perfect for the job.

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Some of the newer clips are now a smaller size than the jubbly used to be, suppose I'll have to look for the smaller version flexi drive (or use a 1/4" drive socket as suggested) Of course us old uns remember when the jubbly clip didn't have a hex head only a screwdriver slot

I've noticed that the narrower 8mm wide clips have a 6mm hex and the wider 12mm have a 7mm hex. The old 5/16" and 1/2" sizes presumably for those whose memory goes back that far.

The narrow ones are not so good for silicon hoses that need to be that bit tighter.

I have the 12mm ones on all the turbo hose joints except for where the 90degree bend hose enters the EGR by-pass where I fitted a 'T'-Bolt job.

That 90degree bend seems to be where oily vapour tends to condense and lie so can seep past a standard jubilee clip.

I did consider going 'all 'T'-Bolt' but I've done 12K with the silicon hoses now and everything seems secure.

Singvogel.

nickcc said:

Some of the newer clips are now a smaller size than the jubbly used to be, suppose I'll have to look for the smaller version flexi drive (or use a 1/4" drive socket as suggested) Of course us old uns remember when the jubbly clip didn't have a hex head only a screwdriver slot

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I'm that old that a jubbly was frozen orange juice in a carton