Home made waxoyl

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ronsealdeath

ronsealdeath

Sagging Member
Posts
1,851
Location
Swansea, Wales
Hi, for you Classic owners out there, I came up with a bit of a homebrew waxoyl that I used on my sills and rear x-member today. Went on really well and dried to a good consistency. Here is what I did:-

Went to Wilkinsons and bought

1 bag of tea light candles
1 paint mixing/storage pot with lid
Some cheap brushes
Big bottle of turps substitute or white spirit

I took the tea lights and removed the foil cover then taking about 20 or so, put them in an old sock and bashed them up with a rubber mallet.
I poured the broken candles into the paint storage pot and filled up to about 3/4 full with the turps. Shook it up and left for a week.
Added some more turps, shook, waited a week.
I ended up with a runny wax about the consistency of custard.
I then took a garden sprayer from a cheapo shop and decantered the gloop into it. I added some old gear oil and more turps then to thin it further and shook it up.
I stood this in a bucket of warm/hot water for 15 mins and it was good for spraying.
The sprayer died eventually as I put it in too hot water and it split :D
So I took my parafin gun and hooked it up to my compressor at 90psi, added the mixture and thinned it a bit more. Heated up and that went on really nicely. Put it up into the sills and coated the outside of them a treat.

I drilled a couple of holes in the rear x.member and filled with the mixture, then plugged with plastic grommets afterwards. After about 5 hrs it had dried to a more solid wax but it was still able to creep when warmer.It was pretty on the money in terms of how easy it was to use.
I then took a paint brush and used that to paint it onto the body mounts.
Should help the old girl last a few more years, if the electrics don't fail first :mad:
 
ronsealdeath said:
Hi, for you Classic owners out there, I came up with a bit of a homebrew waxoyl that I used on my sills and rear x-member today. Went on really well and dried to a good consistency. Here is what I did:-

Went to Wilkinsons and bought

1 bag of tea light candles
1 paint mixing/storage pot with lid
Some cheap brushes
Big bottle of turps substitute or white spirit

I took the tea lights and removed the foil cover then taking about 20 or so, put them in an old sock and bashed them up with a rubber mallet.
I poured the broken candles into the paint storage pot and filled up to about 3/4 full with the turps. Shook it up and left for a week.
Added some more turps, shook, waited a week.
I ended up with a runny wax about the consistency of custard.
I then took a garden sprayer from a cheapo shop and decantered the gloop into it. I added some old gear oil and more turps then to thin it further and shook it up.
I stood this in a bucket of warm/hot water for 15 mins and it was good for spraying.
The sprayer died eventually as I put it in too hot water and it split :D
So I took my parafin gun and hooked it up to my compressor at 90psi, added the mixture and thinned it a bit more. Heated up and that went on really nicely. Put it up into the sills and coated the outside of them a treat.

I drilled a couple of holes in the rear x.member and filled with the mixture, then plugged with plastic grommets afterwards. After about 5 hrs it had dried to a more solid wax but it was still able to creep when warmer.It was pretty on the money in terms of how easy it was to use.
I then took a paint brush and used that to paint it onto the body mounts.
Should help the old girl last a few more years, if the electrics don't fail first :mad:
Click to expand...

Why:confused2:
 
Yes thats it, it really was easy to make and for £2 it made about £20 worth on waxoyl. It just surprised me that the raw materials are so cheap, someone is making a buck from selling it in tins for sure!
But granted it cab a bit messy! Have lots of old newspaper to hand
 
oil...spray on oil ..in chassis and on panels UNDER car..do it 2 times a year..no rust..none.unlike wax based stuff which allows water to creep under..(cos you wont do it again beliving the crap on the tin that says it lasts years..like feck it does..peels off.)

also chain lube is excellent!!!sticks like glue!!but not so cheap..

(cover discs first) spray on with old shultz gun
 
zen said:
oil...spray on oil ..in chassis and on panels UNDER car..do it 2 times a year..no rust..none.unlike wax based stuff which allows water to creep under..(cos you wont do it again beliving the crap on the tin that says it lasts years..like feck it does..peels off.)

also chain lube is excellent!!!sticks like glue!!but not so cheap..

(cover discs first) spray on with old shultz gun
Click to expand...


So when you say spray on oil, are you talking about stuff like WD40 or maybe cheap spray oil like it? or do you mean used engine oil through an high pressure spray gun???
 
zen said:
oil...spray on oil ..in chassis and on panels UNDER car..do it 2 times a year..no rust..none.unlike wax based stuff which allows water to creep under..(cos you wont do it again beliving the crap on the tin that says it lasts years..like feck it does..peels off.)

also chain lube is excellent!!!sticks like glue!!but not so cheap..

(cover discs first) spray on with old shultz gun
Click to expand...
Chain saw oil is good too, less expensive than wax oil. You can make waxoil with beeswax rather than candles and candles dissolve in white spirit quicker if you heat the mixture :eek:.
 
Last edited:
5L of waxoyl, mix 50/50 with gearoil of liquid grease, do mine every year, spray loads in the chassis, £40 tops, whats the price of somebody welding???
prevention is better than cure.
 
If i understand correctly waxoyl has a rust treatment in it so any corrosion will be stopped and the wax prevents further moisture getting in and starting the corrosive process again.

using wax without an inhibitor/treatment will result in moisture being locked in and the corrosion continuing under the wax protective coating.

personally i like dinitrol
 
ukadamwest said:
If i understand correctly waxoyl has a rust treatment in it so any corrosion will be stopped and the wax prevents further moisture getting in and starting the corrosive process again.

using wax without an inhibitor/treatment will result in moisture being locked in and the corrosion continuing under the wax protective coating.

personally i like dinitrol
Click to expand...

Doesn't matter what you use, but you MUST apply it to dry metal. Application when the car is new is good, at anytime later, the only thing you are doing is slowing down the inevitable conclusion.
 
i have used hypoid 90 gear oil, over years, its supposed to have anti rust properties and it sticks well to chassis, just have a look under your landy and if you see a patch of gearbox oil thats gathered around the chassis area its the only bit thats like new
 
peter8315 said:
i have used hypoid 90 gear oil, over years, its supposed to have anti rust properties and it sticks well to chassis, just have a look under your landy and if you see a patch of gearbox oil thats gathered around the chassis area its the only bit thats like new
Click to expand...

Standard practice many moons ago was to mix old oil with paraffin and spray it on the chassis and underbody now and again. :D:D
 
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