Waxoyl or Lanoguard

Waxoyl or Lanoguard?

Hi I'm getting a 2010 l322 this week. It looks pretty clean and only light surface spots on the rear arches

Walk round if you're interested
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I enquired with a local specialist about waxoyl

"Hello first it would need a steam clean at £70 then leave to dry off overnight the waxoyl underneath is £410 a full waxoyl including doors sills engine bay etc is £570 a loan car is£15 all prices are plus vat."

Is a steam clean likely to freak out any of the electricals

Is this worth it over a DIY treatment with lanoguard?

At them prices you have to diy.
In fact you could buy a compressor/airline/wax gun/wax, do the job and have quite a bit of money left over, which means next all you would have to buy is the wax.
Also need some cheap tarps from toolstation etc.

Waxoyl is pretty crap these days.

https://www.machinemart.co.uk/p/airmaster-tiger-16550-3hp-50-litre-air-compres/

https://www.machinemart.co.uk/p/rh15-rubber-airline-hose-8mm-15-metre/

https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/132472721539?epid=21017019578&hash=item1ed7fd5083:g:E0UAAOSwX7BaXd8Q&amdata=enc:AQAIAAAA4EfcR7kY4+IB31QNii1xu2Zu+SwGXhJ4aR8XUS5/qV2U5sH6aLHxajdWs0RfjgwpnZCZ9ftPBovCw3m4EzgRhZmKZL+9VJfUavpt5SjAUzfLO7OgjsWlcET3PSVV/P3RRGxm6HRsG/A+kC8+iLH7JFBOWqNzt/5r7yPJD8iNM1KtoXtnrV1uPJe9INVbYaER8R7EcNeiYIfIacduTt1L42MOgTlvxUPXJE+87LjDbk+3vlY2h4Z88zh32/S5FuhDBySMdIn+nX7QwR5YQ2ROHmTWNE6jo4WU7ngiCj2hpQmH|tkp:Bk9SR8DKod3xYQ

Personally i wouldn't steam clean.
Power hose and a brush sounds plenty. Remove any loose rust, spray on some jenolite to the affected areas, let it dry and lanoguard the lot

There's no mudflaps

Take the steps off and have a look underneath,, they hold all manner of nastiness

I wouldn't go near it with steam. Waxoil applied hot works very well in my experience, just be prepared to retouch exposed areas every couple of years.

Good to read the 'dry overnight' part.
Worth paying the extra over & above the cowboys that do the complete job in a few hours

kermit_rr said:

There's no mudflaps

Take the steps off and have a look underneath,, they hold all manner of nastiness

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Do you recommended fitting at least front flaps after I've protected it to stop build up under the sill covers?

Mart1nS said:

Do you recommended fitting at least front flaps after I've protected it to stop build up under the sill covers?

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I think they are more for limiting fling onto bodywork and following vehicles

they do have the capacity to store dirt, but do prevent stones etc. we kept flaps front and rear but got rid of side steps, less wind noise as a bonus!

No side steps and mudflaps, ripped off and bent

Mark Piercy said:

No side steps and mudflaps, ripped off and bent

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Side floats would be more use on yours

Datatek said:

Side floats would be more use on yours

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You are a bunch of rotters, poor Mark, his car had just watched an old episode of top gear where they try to cross the channel on the car boats and his car wanted to try is all. Solihull forgot to upload the swimming lessons is all.

When I did mine I used Bilt hamber Dynax UB on bits that get really battered with road crap then Bilt hamber S50 inside box sections and normal Waxoyl applied warm with sprayer on everything else, mainly because it’s cheap for a gallon and still works of applied thin and hot, problems start when it’s caked on thick water gets behind.
then each time I’m under car doing a job give any little bits iv caught doing a job or worn off just spray with chain wax, sticks well and has loads of anti corrosion properties, (saves getting Waxoyl set up)

Datatek said:

Side floats would be more use on yours

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Now hey, I say hey

When you look at the difference in cost between lanoguard and fluid film, you then start to see how lanoguard fund their huge advertising campaign.

Then you get curious as to what the difference there is between them and look at the COSHH sheets and realise you can buy lanolin and naptha at a fraction of the cost....