Mine doesnt have that connection at the end. And the sender harness is different
can u take a pic and post it on here for id plse
Fuel Gage upsidedown
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can u take a pic and post it on here for id plse
Danielsand
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Mine doesnt have that connection at the end. And the sender harness is different
Well,.....it's close enough. Now you know what to look for, with your specific VIN. Try the dealers first (to get the "feel" for the price), than aftermarket, Ebay, breakers, etc.
In many cases, these things just need a good cleaning. I just went through the same thing with one of my bikes (BMW K1200RS). The hoses inside the tank are "gasoline resistant" (supposedly!) but they "melted" a "bit", and left a black "goo" in their wake. The goo stopped the sending unit from working, and a good cleaning of the inside of the tank, plus cleaning the sending unit/replacing the hoses, sorted it out.
This gunk/goo build up is especially evident if the vehicle was parked for a while (without "Stabil", or similar added to the fuel).
thizzlemania91
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Ill just call the stealers. See if i can get a quote. ThNks guys.
Nodge68
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Iirc LR stealers don't list the sender unit separately. I've seen a few on Ebay over the years. They seem to sell for around £40 on there.
thizzlemania91
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Ok i called the stealers and they said i need to buy the whole gas pump assembly. Ok now check this out. They said that in order to buy the part assembly, i need to get it fitted as well. I never heard about this. But i have called this dealer before (closes one and te next one closes is 130 miles away). So ill just check on ebay for one.
Nodge68
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As far as I know there are a couple of different sender units depending on market and year.
YAD000070 UK spec Freelander vin 1A000001 to 2A218943
YAD000080 UK spec Freelander from vin 2A218944 onwards
Danielsand
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BEFORE you take the next step, you need to check IF the sending unit IS the culprit. You've got the ohm readings in this post,...use them. After that check the breakers, the dealer should be the last resort.
I had a similar issue with the bike (needed the pump too), and the local CA dealer wanted almost 400USD for it. Ebay was (brand new) delivered for less than 60USD.
There are MANY ways to get parts, if one is resourceful. Don't just start "throwing parts at it" (like most dealers do!). Check, and double check, and THEN buy what you need wherever is the cheapest.
I had a similar issue with the bike (needed the pump too), and the local CA dealer wanted almost 400USD for it. Ebay was (brand new) delivered for less than 60USD.
There are MANY ways to get parts, if one is resourceful. Don't just start "throwing parts at it" (like most dealers do!). Check, and double check, and THEN buy what you need wherever is the cheapest.
thizzlemania91
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Ill check the voltage first. I just need to get my multimeter back from my friend. Ill do it today. Ill be reporting bak.
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teddywood1
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some body does not know when there glass or in this case tank is half full or half empty. LOL :hysterically_laughi:hysterically_laughi
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Danielsand
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I understand the faulty gauge bothers you. I do. I am so OCD, it would drive me NUTS. But I wasn't OCD my whole life (I blame military!).
I started driving in the times when fuel gauges were sooo notoriously inacurate, that nobody paid any atention to them.
But odometers worked fine! Even to this day of comupters and gadgets, I zero out my trip meter EVERY time I fill up.
Back in a day, I would get a "new" car, fill up the tank, zero the trip, and fill up a two gallon gas can that I kept in the trunk. I would drive the car down to empty, pull over, give it some gas from the can, and go to the nearest gas station. I would record the miles on the trip meter when the car stopped (or started stalling), and give myself about 20 miles from that.
After the first test, gas can was not needed anymore. Zero the trip, and go! When the recorded mileage approached the "danger zone", pull over and fill it! It worked like that for YEARS.
And now I'm driving 06 L322, and it has all these gadgets ("miles to empty"), and it's full of ****! Many a time I was at "-----miles to empty" (NO miles at all!), and I still made to the gas station OK, because I KNEW when it will actually go empty.
Gas gauges are for orientation at best! MANY vehicles in my past had badly inacurate gauges (you probably noticed that it takes a "while" to go to "half tank", and once the half is passed, it goes to reserve in a flash!). Anyway.
This is my take on the situation. I would dig into it, and fix it if possible. Would I spend 4-500 bucks to have the "accurate" gauge? Hell no. There is no such thing as "accurate gas gauge".
I started driving in the times when fuel gauges were sooo notoriously inacurate, that nobody paid any atention to them.
But odometers worked fine! Even to this day of comupters and gadgets, I zero out my trip meter EVERY time I fill up.
Back in a day, I would get a "new" car, fill up the tank, zero the trip, and fill up a two gallon gas can that I kept in the trunk. I would drive the car down to empty, pull over, give it some gas from the can, and go to the nearest gas station. I would record the miles on the trip meter when the car stopped (or started stalling), and give myself about 20 miles from that.
After the first test, gas can was not needed anymore. Zero the trip, and go! When the recorded mileage approached the "danger zone", pull over and fill it! It worked like that for YEARS.
And now I'm driving 06 L322, and it has all these gadgets ("miles to empty"), and it's full of ****! Many a time I was at "-----miles to empty" (NO miles at all!), and I still made to the gas station OK, because I KNEW when it will actually go empty.
Gas gauges are for orientation at best! MANY vehicles in my past had badly inacurate gauges (you probably noticed that it takes a "while" to go to "half tank", and once the half is passed, it goes to reserve in a flash!). Anyway.
This is my take on the situation. I would dig into it, and fix it if possible. Would I spend 4-500 bucks to have the "accurate" gauge? Hell no. There is no such thing as "accurate gas gauge".
thizzlemania91
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Danielsand
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That's VERY different from what's in my tank! Did you get the resistance readings?
thizzlemania91
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New problem. The engine hard kicks in first and the odo flashes F and 4 :/
Danielsand
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See my posts regarding F4. Basically it took 2-4 "washes" of barrel connectors, AND the fuse box with contact cleaner, and all good.
Since you just took this thing out of your tank, and probably jiggled the connectors, I would venture to say,....no worries, it's NOT the solenoids (regardless of what OBD says!),....it's electrical!
thizzlemania91
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What exactly did you clean? Was it the fuse box?
thizzlemania91
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I just did the engine degreaser two days ago. Maybe thats what set it off.
G are you sure of your readings
Always thought 302ohms = Half empty
:behindsofa:
thats what rave says, but we know rave to be wrong, lol
otherwise i will get something thrown at me ,
ah, this may be your problem as water may have gone in the fuse box or sensors as the main ecu is under the bonnet
might be worth opening up both the ecu and fuse box under the bonnet to see if any water in there
can open them and park in the sun , then go from there, as mentioned u may have to get a contact cleaner
was it all working fine before doing the degreaser
hopefully u havent damaged anything
ref the pic that looks like one with a built in pump, mines a 2002 and doesnt have that, strange, wonder if the wrong unit has been put in for some reason, ut mine is a td4 so maybe they did that with the petrol models ???
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Danielsand
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From "Inglorious Basterds": "It's a BINGO!"
And I do not have any interests in manufacturing, nor sales of the contact cleaner! Buy some. Pronto. F4 fault is tranny communication (barrels/fuse box). Not sure about the fuel sender, but spraying the crap out of it, and sticking it back for testing, can not hurt.
Find Hippo's post about taking the tranny comm plug apart (in the fuse box), and wash it (this helpped me!). Don't just spray like a little girl either! Soak the SOB! Take the barrels apart, and do the same (several times). IF your fuse box looks dry (when you open it), your fault IS in the barrels (but wash the WHOLE fuse box anyway!).
I owned two gas stations with full service car wash facilities from 2000-2010. When I was there (seldom), I would personally wash the good customer's engines (upon request), and charge a bundle. Since I paid numerous claims (especially on 3 series BMW!!), I forbade my employees to wash engines. No more claims.
Your problem is most certainly caused by your engine washing.
