Starting issues

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Alex1981

Member
Posts
13
I recently brought a 2006 freelander 2 TD4. Everything was fine for first few days until it had a problem starting. Once the car is up and running and warm it won't start properly. It won't kick it to life on the first try, just cuts out but starts I. The 2nd or 3rd try. I saw somewhere on here that it might have been the camshaft sensor causing a problem but I've changed that and still the same problem. Should I be replacing the crankshaft sensor? Any help would be greatly appreciated
 
Hi Alex.
You really need to get some diagnosis done on the FL2 to find out what is going on, otherwise you will just be throwing parts at it, which will be costly, cutting out when warm and not starting sometimes does point to the cam sensor but you say that's been changed, so diagnostics is the way forward.
 
Hi Alex.
You really need to get some diagnosis done on the FL2 to find out what is going on, otherwise you will just be throwing parts at it, which will be costly, cutting out when warm and not starting sometimes does point to the cam sensor but you say that's been changed, so diagnostics is the way forward.
I've got no warning lights on and I've put an obd2 machine on it which didn't have any coded. I just didn't want to have to take it in to the garage
 
I've got no warning lights on and I've put an obd2 machine on it which didn't have any coded. I just didn't want to have to take it in to the garage
An OBD2 reader won't always display all errors, they only have to provide emmisions based errors to comply with legislation. Many manufacturers do allow the ECM to output a lot of non emissions codes, but often hold back codes that require dealer level diagnostic equipment to clear.

When you say it's not starting, are you saying that the starter turns the engine over until it times out?

When you replied the cam position sensor, did you set the clearance as per the LR instructions?
 
An OBD2 reader won't always display all errors, they only have to provide emmisions based errors to comply with legislation. Many manufacturers do allow the ECM to output a lot of non emissions codes, but often hold back codes that require dealer level diagnostic equipment to clear.

When you say it's not starting, are you saying that the starter turns the engine over until it times out?

When you replied the cam position sensor, did you set the clearance as per the LR instructions?
When I turn it over the 1st time it tries to start, it gets to 500 revs then cuts out. As soon as I do it the 2nd time it starts fine. As for the clearance, I didn't realise that was a thing
 
When I turn it over the 1st time it tries to start, it gets to 500 revs then cuts out. As soon as I do it the 2nd time it starts fine. As for the clearance, I didn't realise that was a thing
Ok, so it's just not catching on the first start. Is this when the engine is hot or cold?

Yes the cam sensor needs to be set in the correct position, as too far in causes it to contact the timing pulley, and too far our gives insufficient timing feedback to the ECM.

I'll look out how to set it correctly.
 
Ok, so it's just not catching on the first start. Is this when the engine is hot or cold?

Yes the cam sensor needs to be set in the correct position, as too far in causes it to contact the timing pulley, and too far our gives insufficient timing feedback to the ECM.

I'll look out how to set it correctly.
This only happens on hot, always starts fine when cold and thank you for your help
 
I'm not sure, I'll have to look. Where about will it be?
Look under the engine cover at the front of the engine when standing in front of the car.
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If and when you change it make sure you get a good fuel filter as here below.

The fuel filter safety guard will need removing.
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You then remove the fuel lines on top and the four Allen key fixings.
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When you refit the new fuel filter it will need purging using a pump.
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If you do not purge you will have trouble starting the car.
 
Look under the engine cover at the front of the engine when standing in front of the car.
g06PicHl.jpg
1

If and when you change it make sure you get a good fuel filter as here below.

The fuel filter safety guard will need removing.
wjqDTXvl.jpg
2

WY2kKF4l.jpg
3

RpRUX1ol.jpg
4

You then remove the fuel lines on top and the four Allen key fixings.
RZjfQ7Dl.jpg
5

Amp4t73l.jpg
6

When you refit the new fuel filter it will need purging using a pump.
HdppZ17l.jpg
7

Aanyjzkl.jpg
8

If you do not purge you will have trouble starting the car.
Thank you for this but I believe my freelander is a mk1. I think I read somewhere that the fuel filter on my model is behind o/s rear wheel arch
 

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Thank you for this but I believe my freelander is a mk1. I think I read somewhere that the fuel filter on my model is behind o/s rear wheel arch
Ah, it's a Freelander 1 TD4. In your initial post you said Freelander 2, which is a completely different vehicle, with a different set of reasons for bad starting.

For yours, you ideally need to check the low pressure fuel delivery pressure using a suitable diagnostic tool for a start. However I suspect the issue is due to leaking fuel pressure regulator seals.
 
Ah, it's a Freelander 1 TD4. In your initial post you said Freelander 2, which is a completely different vehicle, with a different set of reasons for bad starting.

For yours, you ideally need to check the low pressure fuel delivery pressure using a suitable diagnostic tool for a start. However I suspect the issue is due to leaking fuel pressure regulator seals.
When I brought it it was advertised as a freelander 2, I didn't realise that freelander 2 meant mk2. I know it's definitely a mk1.

Will I need to take it in to the garage then or is this something I can do myself.
 
When I brought it it was advertised as a freelander 2, I didn't realise that freelander 2 meant mk2. I know it's definitely a mk1.

Will I need to take it in to the garage then or is this something I can do myself.
It's official title is a Freelander 1 facelift, not a Freelander 2. A Freelander 2 is a completely different vehicle. I hope you didn't pay FL2 prices for it.
There aren't many FL1s on a 2006 registration plate either, so it's unusual in that respect. Some of these very late FL1s are even the highest VED bracket of over £600 PA, which is more than I'd be happy to pay, especially when the FL2 is under £300 to tax.

I can't imagine many garages would replace the pressure regulator O rings. They'd probably just replace the pressure regulator as a unit, as there's less risk of it going wrong.
 
It's official title is a Freelander 1 facelift, not a Freelander 2. A Freelander 2 is a completely different vehicle. I hope you didn't pay FL2 prices for it.
There aren't many FL1s on a 2006 registration plate either, so it's unusual in that respect. Some of these very late FL1s are even the highest VED bracket of over £600 PA, which is more than I'd be happy to pay, especially when the FL2 is under £300 to tax.

I can't imagine many garages would replace the pressure regulator O rings. They'd probably just replace the pressure regulator as a unit, as there's less risk of it going wrong.
I paid £2765 for it, with 75000 miles on it. I thought that was quite reasonable.

If I can I'll do the pressure regulator myself. I just need to make sure I'm changing the right part and buying the right part for it. I found 1 online which I think is the right part, I've added a pic. If it isn't could you please point me in the right direction.
 

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I paid £2765 for it, with 75000 miles on it. I thought that was quite reasonable.

If I can I'll do the pressure regulator myself. I just need to make sure I'm changing the right part and buying the right part for it. I found 1 online which I think is the right part, I've added a pic. If it isn't could you please point me in the right direction.
I recently changed the regulator on mine. It's fine to do yourself but you need to take out the starter motor (and watch the crank sensor directly underneath he starter motor). If you don't you will try to undo the two Torx screws (T30) from above in a very confined space and if you don't have exactly the right size ratchet and bit you will struggle.. If you don't want to take out the starter motor you can take off the Y junction attached to two coolant hoses (3) bolts and remove the clamps holding the fuel lines to the high pressure fuel pump (two bolts). That clears you enough space to get at the Torx bolts on the regulator. Means you lose coolant of course, but easily replaced.

That looks like the regulator but you can always double check on eBay against the vehicles listed for the part.
 
Thank you for this but I believe my freelander is a mk1. I think I read somewhere that the fuel filter on my model is behind o/s rear wheel arch
Hi Alex.
I now realise that, but you did state FL2 so that was the input for the photos, it has now been suggested that the regulator O-rings could be your problem, being a new purchase to you i would also do a leak back test on the injectors, maybe a fuel filter change which you will find behind the OS rear wheel arch liner.
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The HPFP regulator is best accessed if you remove the manifold, 20 minutes, and the starter but not really necessary, because with the manifold removed you can let the rabbit see the hole.
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Leak back test kit is about £25 from ebay etc.
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After 2 minutes tick over.
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With the manifold removed you can clean it out, and the EGR after removing the MAP sensor.
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Also if you do not know that it has been serviced in the last 12 months i would do that as well, oil, air PCV filters
 
Hi Alex.
I now realise that, but you did state FL2 so that was the input for the photos, it has now been suggested that the regulator O-rings could be your problem, being a new purchase to you i would also do a leak back test on the injectors, maybe a fuel filter change which you will find behind the OS rear wheel arch liner.
CkJvN9Dl.jpg
1

tFnHuOwl.jpg
2

The HPFP regulator is best accessed if you remove the manifold, 20 minutes, and the starter but not really necessary, because with the manifold removed you can let the rabbit see the hole.
R0gJ0gpl.jpg
3

maLRovfl.jpg
4

sJBFbU5l.jpg
5

1tkRUy6l.jpg
6

Leak back test kit is about £25 from ebay etc.
V2aAXQQl.jpg
7

After 2 minutes tick over.
JhSGu6ql.jpg
8

With the manifold removed you can clean it out, and the EGR after removing the MAP sensor.
0m0RZXwl.jpg
9

pfvWAull.jpg
10

fAZfa4Al.jpg
11

4hbWrKWl.jpg
12

MT5YY3Yl.jpg
13

lNsKoPQl.jpg
14

T0zjjkWl.jpg
15

Also if you do not know that it has been serviced in the last 12 months i would do that as well, oil, air PCV filters
Thank you for help, sorry for the late reply. I will try to do this myself. I do have a new problem thought and wondered if it might be related.

The freelander has started to lose power when going uphill when more power is needed. This is the only time it happens, its perfectly fine all other times
 
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