Freelander 1 Freelander 1 Major Electrical Problems : Urgent help needed Please

Ross Tait said:

Unfortunately it doesn’t have that info at all unless you an point it out to me. The circuit diagrams for the ccu show the inputs and outputs of other circuits but do not show where the module itself gets power from or where it earths to. There are 3 pages for it in the manual an no diagram shows that info. I’ve spent an hour at it today already.

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GrumpyGel said:

Does this indicate that it gets power from fuse 10 in the engine compartment box and connecting to C0428-16 on the CCU? ... (from 2001MY diagrams)

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Ross Tait said:

Ideal thanks! These manuals are often upside down and hard to navigate until you get used to them. Logically I’d expect to get the full ccu wiring diagram info in the ccu wiring section, but I’m not too surprised the some of the ccu info is in the engine bay fuse comparent section lol. Ok so that sorts out the power supply plug and pin number, now I’ll go back to the manual to find which pin is earth as that’s not mentioned in the engine compartment fuse box info.
Reminds me of the mot manual, it’s back to front too.

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GrumpyGel said:

I went over the earthing points a few times and couldn't see the CCU. Wondering if it earths through the fuse box connector.

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andyfreelandy said:

Individual door locking failure is nearly always the door lock mechanism itself. Also window winders is usually a cable failure or a broken pulley in the mechanism.

Both require door trim removal and by buying new locks and window mechanisms you could go around each door in turn. Mechanism about £50 and window mechanism about £30. Even if you do them all it's a cheap car !!

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Philbee said:

Sorry for not thanking everyone for their input back in the day, that was very wrong of me as I was very grateful for the input.

Yes the issue was solved, took it to a local garage who said it could be a break in circuit in the fuse board. At the time a replacement fuse board was a cheaper option if it worked, than a CPU and at the end of the day if it didn't work I would have a new fuse board at least..
To my relief the new fuse board fixed all the problems.
Still have the TD4 but are suffering more issues with individual door buttons not working, and key fob and window winders........... She is now 22 years old but only has 140k on the clock so only just run in but it may be time to move it on?
Nobody seems to want to give me a price to repair all the issues?
I would like to keep it if the cost was reasonable and cheaper than a new car.

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Philbee said:

Thanks for the reply Andy, it's my time ability and weather that's the problem hence trying to get a price for someone to do it.
May be I'll try when the weather gets better only no where to work out the rain.
How do you find out what parts to order, and where from?
Problem is car is used every day so I can't afford not to be able to finish once started.
FNS window button and OSR don't work, also FNS window is fixed in up position, as mechanism won't raise window..All probably easy to fix for someone in the know with a little time and somewhere to work in the dry. Probably expensive though at £60 - £80 per hour, or even more, which is why I can't get a price. Drivers door lock and key are also showing signs of ware and tare, well the car is an original 51 plate. Freelander 1.

Is it possible to get a new replacement driver's door lock tumbler and key, or does that entail replacing all the electronic bits like ignition and associated programming that goes along with a new fob and locks?
Happy to still use key like we are if could get a new key and tumbler fitted cheaply.
The more I think about it, is it still a viable option to repair?

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rqd37 said:

Hi guys, same issue here in 2024…I’ve tried swapping out the CCU for a fresh unit and removed the fuse box for a thorough inspection - both to no avail. Currently pulling apart the dash in search of earth points. Did you solve eventually OP??
Any other input much appreciated…
Cheers, R

Not being able to access the back door is the most annoying element of the situation!

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Philbee said:

If I remember rightly or wrongly, the feed to the back door has some link with the interior light working but I might be wrong. I seem to remember having that trouble when fitting a rear window mechanism years ago.

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rqd37 said:

Thanks for returning to this thread Phillip. Glad you got that resolved in the end…maybe time for me to replace the fuse board - can I ask, was that the one under the steering wheel or in the engine bay that you replaced? I’ve had a good poke around both but I’m no auto-electrician!

My passenger window is also inoperable - busy cable. Cheap enough to replace as Andy says but looks like a faff! Still, holding out I’ll have a reliable vehicle once all the kinks are ironed out…

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Philbee said:

Hi rqd37

Yes the fuse board they replaced was the one under the steering wheel, was a bit of a gamble for me but it did work out ok.
Might be a good idea to get someone to check the upward side of the circuits to see if all are ok and passing power on, before forking out some dosh. Mine looked ok from outside, but a bit oxidised inside once the old one was removed and replaced you could see it.

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Philbee said:

Hi rqd37

Yes the fuse board they replaced was the one under the steering wheel, was a bit of a gamble for me but it did work out ok.
Might be a good idea to get someone to check the upward side of the circuits to see if all are ok and passing power on, before forking out some dosh. Mine looked ok from outside, but a bit oxidised inside once the old one was removed and replaced you could see it.

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