Electric Water Pump

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The Mad Hat Man said:
how about a bit of conserted effort here from all of us - we must have at least one brain cell between us to resolve some of these issues; instead of just takin the P***?
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Well I might think differently if I owned a petrol model!(having to constantly look at the temp guage)
But to me its just another idiot light to tell you when theres no water in the expantion tank, So if the the waters gone, Chances are its because the HGs chucked it end in,
So yer still in the same ****????
 
well.... we cant change the rad design - is there a bigger rad opton - if so where?
I thought LR brought out a redesign for the HG?

so the only option that I can see is to reduce colant temperature by increasing flow thro engine to reduce localised overheating. A 'leckie pump seems a good start and if a warning lite cant do any harm (except £15 lighter) then it'l all help.
Other option might be to increase air cooling over block, but this mite induce temperature gradient across block, excacerbating problem, and wont help with the "V", cos it will just mean that 1 bank will be cooler than the other.

any other ideas?

yeah - i know a td4 wud've bin betta - not sure i got that as an option now tho.
 
How about an addition engine oil cooler? its seems easier to install since it already has engine oil cooler, just need to reroute thru additional one. But not sure to mount it. any ideas?
 
dearot said:
How about an addition engine oil cooler? its seems easier to install since it already has engine oil cooler, just need to reroute thru additional one. But not sure to mount it. any ideas?
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On my V8 i'm using 2 TD4 fuel coolers as an auto box oil cooler, works a peach

I have a few if anyone is interested
 
The Mad Hat Man said:
sounds a good idea - i know the auto box suffers from cooking - does the engine oil also overheat?
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You know the engine overheats!!!!!! LOL, an added cooler would help

Autobox cooler is way too small plus all the drag from the four wheel drive winding up on cornering, would be a good idea to add an extra cooler to the gearbox aswell.

On hot climate spec f/landers there is an air blast cooler for the gearbox
 
clutchdust said:
You know the engine overheats!!!!!! LOL, an added cooler would help

Autobox cooler is way too small plus all the drag from the four wheel drive winding up on cornering, would be a good idea to add an extra cooler to the gearbox aswell.

On hot climate spec f/landers there is an air blast cooler for the gearbox
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ok CD ;) - yup i no it overheats - but i woz thinkin "water system overheating" not "oil cooking" - i spose one affects the other, but wot temp does the oil get too? I have bin under the (mis)aprehension that it woz localized overheating in the cyl head area because the water woz sitting in hotspots caused by bad head design and coolant flow.
Have i mist the plot here? (no smartass comments by Mondeo please)
 
The Mad Hat Man said:
ok CD ;) - yup i no it overheats - but i woz thinkin "water system overheating" not "oil cooking" - i spose one affects the other, but wot temp does the oil get too? I have bin under the (mis)aprehension that it woz localized overheating in the cyl head area because the water woz sitting in hotspots caused by bad head design and coolant flow.
Have i mist the plot here? (no smartass comments by Mondeo please)
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It is true Mad Hat. But the water system overheating is because its working too hard. It needs to cool down hot autobox oil, hot engine oil, and hot engine block. If we made engine oil a bit cooler then the engine block wont be so hot thus the coolant wont work very hard. Btw, autobox oil cooler is not a bad idea as well to add. these oil cooler solution is easier solution than elctric water pump i guess, to me anyway :rolleyes:
Other thing that I think that would help is making the coolant a little bit cooler by making thermostat to open and the fan fans to spin earlier.
Wot you guys think?
 
The Mad Hat Man said:
Do we have any "how to" threads or stickies on this forum?

If not, would that be a good idea, so if anyone finds a fix then someone with the same prob could be pointed to the fix, rather than re-introduce a common thread?
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Hi MHM,

What do you think of this place to put the EWP? its indicated by the red square box. I guess if we put it there it will avoid the ewp pumping coolant against closed thermostat.

has anyone actually put this one in?

its going pretty slow down here in term of EWP progress...
 

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Hi ya Dearot.
2 points.....
1) you need to fit some form of controller or thermostatic switch, so that the ewp only comes on after the thermostat opens, but carries on after the engine is turned off.
2) It would be next to impossible to mount the ewp where you suggest. I would imagine that the best place to make up a bracket to mount it would be in Hose #8 running from the bottom of the radiator, or between the rad and hose #8.

I have just finished installing a CD pump in my '40 and I recomend it.
 
I have a k series 1800 rover engine which is fitted into my London cab ,the model is called a TX1,the engine runs on LPG as well as petrol.This is the second k series engined cab I have owned,the last one I owned covered apprx 135k but it did go through 4 HG'S.I have owned the latest one since October 2006 ,I have changed the HG for the MLS HG,(I did not change the oil rail),I have fitted the brown and gammons coolant sensor kit,the engine fan works off a kenlowe type unit,as opposed to the ECU,I have set the kenlowe unit to kick in about 90 C,I have installed the PRT,because my K series installation is non standard the LR hoses and unions were no good to me ,so I have used 28mm copper pipe and a 28mm tee compression fitting,as well as Halfords flexi hoses,I have fitted a Davies Craig electric water pump,I have plumbed the ewp into the bottom pipe where it comes out out of the thermostat housing(which now contains no thermostat).The ewp is controlled by a kenlowe type unit ,the kenlowe unit becomes live after the ignition is switched off (via a change over relay),I have set the kenlowe unit so the ewp runs for about 3 mins.I have installed a digital water temperature gauge from auto gauge off E-bay to keep an eye on the temperature.The cab has an auto gearbox the cooler for the gearbox used to be part off the water radiator,IMHO not a good idea for a k series and not good for the auto gearbox,The gearbox now has a seperate mocal 13 row oil cooler(I may change it for a larger one).Having done all these mods,I hope the engine will have an easier life.I would like to keep this cab for a while yet so I may consider fitting a " closed block" Scholar engine.

Simon
 
I asked advice from our Mec department (offshore) the reply I got was

1. Use a high grade coolant (engine ice or equ) (100% fill NO WATER)

2. Monitor coolant temp by fitting a good quality gauge

3. Fill a high quality oil (Magnatec or equ)

4. At the first sign of any changes in engine parameters, resolve the problem (blown exhaust / blocked air filter)

On the question of fitting an EWP they stated to go down the road of High grade coolant first!

One other point I did find on another site, was inccorrect bleeding of the coolant system was another factor for HG failure, seems there are a couple of bleed points that must be used in order to eliminate air from the system.

Regards Dutch RR ( Now freelander)
 
Dutch RR said:
I asked advice from our Mec department (offshore) the reply I got was

1. Use a high grade coolant (engine ice or equ) (100% fill NO WATER) - this can allow the engine to run hotter before it boils - the engine runs too hot anyway - this is just likely to increase head distortion. From what I can see, it is just a propylene glycol base antifreeze, which might allow the engine to run cooler under high load conditions..but is a lot more expensive. In the Uk it is pre-mixed with de-ionised water and sells for £34 a gallon, which by my reckoning is over £50 a fill!

2. Monitor coolant temp by fitting a good quality gauge. Where are you going to monitor the engine coolant temp? The current gauge is good - it just is monitoring at the wrong place.

3. Fill a high quality oil (Magnatec or equ). Wont do any harm - but an aftermarket oil cooler would be a betta option.

4. At the first sign of any changes in engine parameters, resolve the problem (blown exhaust / blocked air filter). Great idea - if yu notice before any damage is done. One of the probs with this engine is that it shows very few signs before it fails - then its too late.

On the question of fitting an EWP they stated to go down the road of High grade coolant first! The advantage of an EWP is that it gives a uniform coolant flow which depends on coolant temp - not on engine speed. It can also be used after engine shut down to reduce/eliminate hot spots and localised boiling - a major problem with the KV6 in particular.

One other point I did find on another site, was inccorrect bleeding of the coolant system was another factor for HG failure, seems there are a couple of bleed points that must be used in order to eliminate air from the system. This is well documented - but dont fall into the trap of "it only happens to morons wot dont know wot they are doing or dont take care" - it has happened to the best of us!

Regards Dutch RR ( Now freelander)
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oh - and good luck
 
I have covered 8k + miles since I changed the hg to the landrover mls gasket and with the ewp,prt,digital temperature gauge,separate oil cooler for the auto gearbox,alluminium higher capacity core radiator, engine fan controlled to operate at 90 degrees by a kenlowe probe and low coolant alarm fitted ,the engine seems to be behaving itself.
Simon
 
Bad News

Head gasket on the way out after 23k miles, burning oil, loosing Coolant externally on exhaust manifold(RH) side of engine at rear(RWD) between block and head, oil/coolant mixture coming out of exhaust .I drive down the road and behind me is a bluey white cloud not good, misfiring from cold (I suppose coolant /oil in one or more of the cylinders .I get tappet rattle,I top up with oil and the rattle goes away, but no oil/coolant mix at the moment.No point replacing head gasket(Sunken Liners?) I have taken the taxi off the road.Off to see Dave Andrews tomorrow, with a spare stripped down engine ,for him to rebuild,block skim, correct liner heights etc.Once the rebuild has been done I will replace the engine ,keep you posted.
 
Mad Hat Man,

If I change the engine ,it would have to go through a type of ,type approval with RED KEN'S PCO/TFL(PUBLIC CARRIAGE OFFICE/TRANSPORT FOR LONDON).
I have read many good things about Dave Andrews

Simon
 
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