EAS won't deflate even with software

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jpc4560

New Member
Posts
10
Hi all,sorry to ask another EAS question.

i have a 1994 (21-09-1994) M reg 4.0se 135k.

all was well until the recent cold weather when i started to get automaticly lifted up or down at random times whilst driving then soon after the four lights came on with the accompanying eas fault message and the 35mph warning with the car stuck above its highest setting (i was smileing but my wife at 4'11 was not) ,so i promptly ordered a modified obd2 lead and software from the internet.

once recieved i plugged it in as instructed and ran the program it all worked fine with a huge list of faults (it listed every fault and the oppisite as well,if that makes sence) which i cleared.

i started the car and pressed the lowest setting but alas nothing.i plugged to laptop back in and then tried to depreassurise the air tank but just one or two puffs of air and that is it its the same story if i try to deflate the air bags one or two puffs and no movment.

the suspension is rock solid would manually draining the air tank depleate the whole system or just the air springs?.
im worried about undoing the nut on the air tank as the pressure is so high.

i have searched this site and many others looking for a possible way to get my range rover down! although i did find lots of useful information i still have the same problem.

thanks for your time and sorry for the long post.

jon
 
Hi all,sorry to ask another EAS question.

i have a 1994 (21-09-1994) M reg 4.0se 135k.

all was well until the recent cold weather when i started to get automaticly lifted up or down at random times whilst driving then soon after the four lights came on with the accompanying eas fault message and the 35mph warning with the car stuck above its highest setting (i was smileing but my wife at 4'11 was not) ,so i promptly ordered a modified obd2 lead and software from the internet.

once recieved i plugged it in as instructed and ran the program it all worked fine with a huge list of faults (it listed every fault and the oppisite as well,if that makes sence) which i cleared.

i started the car and pressed the lowest setting but alas nothing.i plugged to laptop back in and then tried to depreassurise the air tank but just one or two puffs of air and that is it its the same story if i try to deflate the air bags one or two puffs and no movment.

the suspension is rock solid would manually draining the air tank depleate the whole system or just the air springs?.
im worried about undoing the nut on the air tank as the pressure is so high.

i have searched this site and many others looking for a possible way to get my range rover down! although i did find lots of useful information i still have the same problem.

thanks for your time and sorry for the long post.

jon

If you were running the free EAs software, that list of faults means you have not established communication with the EAS ECU. You should have a green button with "Good Idle" Even then if you are using a USB to serial adaptor you may still not have communication.
If you have communication and it won't lower, check fuses and connectors in the EAS box. If not that then I would suspect the driver pack:eek:

Air under high pressure is dangerous, think carefully before you try to deflate anything manually. Doing so won't help solve the problem anyway as it will just leave the car on the bump stops.
 
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Try removing the little white silencer from the back of the valve block where all the pipes go in.I have seen these block up with the dessicant from the receiver/drier unit.
This may be all thats wrong with it - the ecu will go into fault state if it does not see a height change within a certain time.Its usually when they wont go up due to sha--ed compressors or leaky airbags....
 
Hi all,sorry to ask another EAS question.

i have a 1994 (21-09-1994) M reg 4.0se 135k.

all was well until the recent cold weather when i started to get automaticly lifted up or down at random times whilst driving then soon after the four lights came on with the accompanying eas fault message and the 35mph warning with the car stuck above its highest setting (i was smileing but my wife at 4'11 was not) ,so i promptly ordered a modified obd2 lead and software from the internet.

once recieved i plugged it in as instructed and ran the program it all worked fine with a huge list of faults (it listed every fault and the oppisite as well,if that makes sence) which i cleared.

i started the car and pressed the lowest setting but alas nothing.i plugged to laptop back in and then tried to depreassurise the air tank but just one or two puffs of air and that is it its the same story if i try to deflate the air bags one or two puffs and no movment.

the suspension is rock solid would manually draining the air tank depleate the whole system or just the air springs?.
im worried about undoing the nut on the air tank as the pressure is so high.

i have searched this site and many others looking for a possible way to get my range rover down! although i did find lots of useful information i still have the same problem.

thanks for your time and sorry for the long post.

jon
Providing the seals in the valve block are sound, draining the tank will do just that...drain the tank, the pressure in the springs is held by the valves in the block.

Never drain the tank under pressure, unless you REALLY know what you are doing....
 
thanks for the replies.

i have already checked all the fuses and relays (i swoped the air con relay and there was no difference).

the little white filter was removed and replaced.

the idle button was green and i was able to turn the compressor on and off and get the eas unlock button to work,so i assume it is communicating fine.

thanks for the advice with the tank.i will be staying well clear.

silly question if the driver has failed how am i going to remove it without letting the pressure out of the system?

im seriously thinking about buying one of those manual pump up kits but if i did i would still need to safely deflate the system.

any ideas.

thanks again for the quick replies
 
thanks for the replies.

i have already checked all the fuses and relays (i swoped the air con relay and there was no difference).

the little white filter was removed and replaced.

the idle button was green and i was able to turn the compressor on and off and get the eas unlock button to work,so i assume it is communicating fine.

thanks for the advice with the tank.i will be staying well clear.

silly question if the driver has failed how am i going to remove it without letting the pressure out of the system?

im seriously thinking about buying one of those manual pump up kits but if i did i would still need to safely deflate the system.

any ideas.

thanks again for the quick replies

OK so you have comms. The driver pack is a box of electronics on the side of the valve block, a black tin about 6" x 4" x .75". You need to remove the compressor to get at it. Work with a door or the tailgate open and the EAS will be unaware of what you are doing.
If you can borrow a driver pack to prove the point, that may save you cash. Otherwise it's a new one, or a good tested secondhand one.
 
thanks for getting back to me Datatek :)

i will take the pump off and have a look at the driver pack though
i think given the cash i have (not alot) and the driver packs are expencive that im going to forgo the eas and buy one of the manual pump up kits.

is there a way of manualy releasing the air from the springs without damaging them or myself?

for instance could they just be disconected from the valve block.


thanks jon
 
thanks for getting back to me Datatek :)

i will take the pump off and have a look at the driver pack though
i think given the cash i have (not alot) and the driver packs are expencive that im going to forgo the eas and buy one of the manual pump up kits.

is there a way of manualy releasing the air from the springs without damaging them or myself?

for instance could they just be disconected from the valve block.


thanks jon

You can release the pipes from the valve block but they will be quite hard to release under pressure. Wear strong gloves and goggles, compressed air can penetrate the skin.
Before you try a manual inflation kit, check all the connectors in the EAS box and in particular the earths.
You can make your own manual inflation kit. Go to a truck tyre place and beg four used long stem schrader valves, like cars they fit new ones when the tyres are changed and chuck the old ones, they go to a pnuematics supplier and get 4 compressed air connectors, bingo for a couple of quid you have a manual inflation set. Make sure you get the right size connectors though, the valve diameter will be bigger than the plastic pipe.:D
 
thanks for that.

just incase it makes any difference i have been back out to the car and pluged it back in.if i try to adjust the height of the car i can here clicking coming from the under side of the valve block but no movement its the same clicking i get when trying to deflate the springs but without the whoosh of air.

just thought i should mention it before i try to release the pipes from the valve block.

thanks again for the help i am very greatful
 
thanks for that.

just incase it makes any difference i have been back out to the car and pluged it back in.if i try to adjust the height of the car i can here clicking coming from the under side of the valve block but no movement its the same clicking i get when trying to deflate the springs but without the whoosh of air.

just thought i should mention it before i try to release the pipes from the valve block.

thanks again for the help i am very greatful


As I said, it's worth checking all the connectors in the EAS box, part them and look for corrosion.
To release the pipes, push the pipe in, then use a flat blade screwdriver to push in the collet round the pipe, then, while holding the collet pressed, pull on the pipe.
 
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