Drivers door locks but won’t unlock, however....

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6

6024kingedward1

New Member
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The however bit is that you can hear the motor whirr then the cer-clunk on locking AND unlocking. This seems to suggest the both lock and unlock motors and solenoids are working, but it’s not unlocking. I would have thought if the unlock motor or solenoid was not working, it wouldn’t make the same noises as it does when locking?... So, before forking out for new actuator unit, is there a mechanical component that might have failed to do with the unlocking action?
I had the door panel off today to check for the obvious. Sprayed WD40 in every gap, gave the unit a gentle tap or two in case something had seized, nothing.

Thanks in advance.
 
Yes, I realise. I may as well have put "iv'e got a car, with a problem" and expect an answer :)
Ah, the 'spring' I saw that mentioned before - any idea how to get at/check this. Assume its something internal to the actuator unit?
Thanks
 
6024kingedward1 said:
Yes, I realise. I may as well have put "iv'e got a car, with a problem" and expect an answer :)
Ah, the 'spring' I saw that mentioned before - any idea how to get at/check this. Assume its something internal to the actuator unit?
Thanks
Click to expand...
Not personally, but if you search "how to replace door lock spring on a Discovery 2" using Google, I bet you'll find what you need. It'll boot you back in here if there is something on LZ . LZ's own search engine isn't as powerful, but the more precise you make your search on google the more likely you are to gte a result. don't think it is internal to the actuator, but as I said I have yet to do one, so hearsay is all I can go on. But hundreds will have done it so you are sure to find the answer. It may even be in Haynes or on Rave.
 
neilly said:
Disco 2 did not use door lock springs like the D1, replace the whole actuator if needed, as stripping them apart is a fools errand.

Cheers
Click to expand...
6024kingedward1 said:
The however bit is that you can hear the motor whirr then the cer-clunk on locking AND unlocking. This seems to suggest the both lock and unlock motors and solenoids are working, but it’s not unlocking. I would have thought if the unlock motor or solenoid was not working, it wouldn’t make the same noises as it does when locking?... So, before forking out for new actuator unit, is there a mechanical component that might have failed to do with the unlocking action?
I had the door panel off today to check for the obvious. Sprayed WD40 in every gap, gave the unit a gentle tap or two in case something had seized, nothing.

Thanks in advance.
Click to expand...
Not an unknown issue with the D2s door locks, they can be repaired and there is a thread to show you how, but the simplest option although not the cheapest is to replace the whole lock.
And WELCOME to the Forum, unfortunately you have straight away has some misinformation in the posts above already which in my opinion is not that unusual.
 
discool said:
Not an unknown issue with the D2s door locks, they can be repaired and there is a thread to show you how, but the simplest option although not the cheapest is to replace the whole lock.
And WELCOME to the Forum, unfortunately you have straight away has some misinformation in the posts above already which in my opinion is not that unusual.
Click to expand...
Stanleysteamer said:
but as I said I have yet to do one, so hearsay is all I can go on.
Click to expand...
As I made clear in my post, there is a lot of hearsay and misdirection in the Forum world, sorry if I am guilty of this, but I will keep the popcorn warm while we see how this one pans out!
 
sierrafery said:
Even then the correct fix is the same :cool:
Click to expand...
Replacement (i.e. with new, secondhand or rebuilt by someone else,) may not always be the "correct" fix. ( Beginning to wonder if I am understanding your use of the word "correct".) Any fix that works would be "correct". Both fixes would therefore be "correct". Perhaps that is what you mean!:);)
It is just that one would be a lot more expensive than the other. My only point here really is trying to save the chap money, especially if he is a bit handy.
I know it is what I would do, and I think you know me well enough to already know that!
Recently I have repaired electric window motors and mechanisms, and the ignition barrel on my D2.
Cost me absolutely nothing.
I could have replaced both with new. Hate to think what it would have cost.
Each to his own, it is in the end a question of personal taste, confidence and inclination.
If the guy is on the forum one has to assume he doesn't just take his vehicle to a garage and then throw the money at them. But it is hard to judge someone's ability, or the point at which he would prefer to spend money, just from what he says in a thread.
I've been doing ignition barrels and electric windows for ages now so to me an actuator is not that different, although I have never done one, but if you are new to it you may just want to buy a new one, swap the old one out and then take the old one apart as a learning experience, then when another one goes you'll be further down the learning road.
And you aren't the only one to make a similar comment to me about this. I got the same sort of thing about repairing an ignition barrel, even though it is absolutely a piece of p!ss to do,:rolleyes:.
Just saying!;)
 
Stanleysteamer said:
And you aren't the only one to make a similar comment to me about this. I got the same sort of thing about repairing an ignition barrel, even though it is absolutely a piece of p!ss to do,:rolleyes:.
Click to expand...

Ignition barrel is a piece of p!ss as you put it, compared to stripping an rebuilding the actuator.
Give it a try, when you have broken it buy a replacement unit.

Cheers
 
LOL, interesting comments, thanks.
Having monetarily got excited finding replacement springs on ebay, I then read the above and also saw they were all for D1's (re-entering the search and hitting return key harder still didn't make any D2 ones appear!) So all roads lead to £££ It wouldn't be so frustrating if the motors and/or solenoids were not working, but they go whirr-clunk on both lock and unlock, suggesting they are still working, and its some mechanical bit broken! Tempted to buy the drivers one, replace and confirm working then open up old one. If I discover the issue and it can be repaired, I might then try repairing passenger one based on the experiment with the old divers side one. At least save the cost of a second replacement for the passenger side....
Then I can re-invest the saved money into the rest of my issues list:
-3-amigos
-wallowy back end
-Intermittent deflation of rear suspension (no logic, random, goes weeks without then will happen)
-hole in exhaust type sound but no hole found
-rear left brakes wearing out much faster then others (caliper...)

Heck, I almost forgot, ts a 20 year old car nearly!
 
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