Dodgy fuel pump or not??

My series 3 is giving me a headache at the moment. Its a 1981 SWB 2 1/4 petrol. When I bought it last month, it started to kangaroo and lurch on the way home. Since getting it back, I have, changed the carb for a shiny new one, changed the fuel lines, plugs, checked the tank for crud, and removed and checked the fuel pump for the same.
I redid the timing this morning, and it idles fantastically. The revs increase nicely with both gentle and sudden acceleration. The mixture seems spot on.
The problem starts when I take her for a drive. She drives fine from standing, but within a few minutes or so, starts to lurch, and loses power. I can just about get the revs up when she slows.
I have fitted a clear inline fuel filter (the correct way round) just prior to the carb. This thing never seems to have any real amount of fuel in it, which I find strange. When I get the power loss, If I check this filter its empty or virtually empty. I had the fuel pump off again this morning, and it gives a good squirt of fuel disconnected so assumed its ok. Replaced, and the same happens, virtually empty inline fuel filter. The pump seems to work fine when off!, but not when its refitted?
Im going to replace the pump with a brand spanking new one, as I cant see anything wrong with the diaphragm etc on dismantling the current one. If that doesnt fix the problem I have no idea what to do next. Having never owned a series landrover, I am wondering if anyone can answer if:

1) When you hand pump the fuel pump, it should squirt fuel fairly soon after pumping? (Mine pumps for ages and I dont seem to get any real flow)

2) Should the inline fuel filter be full of fuel, ie more than a dribble in the bottom, or does it fill, empty, refill etc etc. Mine seems to fill a small amount, then refill a little at idle. I'm guessing when driving and accelerating in say 3rd or 4th its struggling due to fuel demand, but is fine at idle because there is very little.

All answers and advice gratefully received, as I want to get her sorted for the winter!

I reckon your pump be buggered , or as we say in Wales " cock oen " . this comment has nothing to with the fuel pump , but those who understand may have a chortle ! But the fuel pimp is ****ed .:kettlepot:

I may be wrong but i think the pump should pump constantly.
The fuel filter should be 1/2 - 3/4 full. Otherwise you won't be getting a feed into the carb.

I'm no mechanic but I hope this helps.

I think i have the same problem.
and , i have had it before.
i had a Britpart pump that lasted under 1000 miles but 2 days out of 12 month warranty.
the local dealer, in bromsgrove wouldn't replace it, Cn*t.
so i might order a pump just in case.

Only other thing worth checking is you haven't got a leak before the pump.
Before the pump is negative pressure and a leak will suck air in rather than leak fuel out.

There's also a filter in the tank, on the feed pipe. Check for water in the tank, too. It's unlikely with a series but if the fuel cap breather is blocked there might be a vacuum in the tank preventing fuel flow. Or the pump might be knackered. If you turn the engine over with the pipe to the carb disconnected do you get good flow?
...of course it could be the condensor or coil breaking down under load - are you sure your ignition system is spot on?

Cheers for the replies everyone. Ciderman, I,ve heard the after market mechanical are less than reliable, and judging from wht you say its true!
Blue beasty and Oxides, im thinking that if the pump squirts while off the engine you guys may be right and I need to look prior to the pump. The only thing is, the glass bowl fills fine, and there's no sediment, so I assumed if its getting to the glass bowl ok, it should pump up the pipe to the carb ok? Im considering fitting a facet posi flo electric pump with a 1.5 - 4 psi pressure in the hope it will fix it. I will probably leave the mechanical one connected, but just disconnect the pipes. I will try turning it over disconnected to check flow, but as the inline filter barely fills I doubt it will.
I take it the inline fuel filter should be virtually full then?.. im happy the ignition is ok. set it to almost 6 degrees btdc using timing light, and slight twisting of the dizzy. Thought it better to do it by ear, and it sounds lovely!

I'd guess something electrical.

Check the routing of your fuel line. My S3 had the fuel line going over the top of the engine and it was getting warm causing the fuel to evaporate and cause air-locks. I've now cable tied it to the fan shroud and had no more problems....sounds simple...not really I found this out after replacing everything from the manifold to the tank pick up!

I've read elsewhere that the bio-ethanol used in modern fuels evaporates at quite low temperatures and that is why the filter is always full of vapour...modern cars have a fuel return so the warm fuel from the engine compartment gets sent back to the tank to cool down. Before blaming the pump it may be best to fit a return to the tank?

Dom

If you need a good pump I've got a Facet for sale

Dr_evil said:

If you need a good pump I've got a Facet for sale

Click to expand...

How do you rate the facet ones doc? Someone at work suggested their posi flo one giving 1.5-4 psi. Would my zenith cope or would I need a pressure reg?

I must say im considering one. Just having a think about where to fit it and how to protect it really.

dominicbeesley said:

Check the routing of your fuel line. My S3 had the fuel line going over the top of the engine and it was getting warm causing the fuel to evaporate and cause air-locks. I've now cable tied it to the fan shroud and had no more problems....sounds simple...not really I found this out after replacing everything from the manifold to the tank pick up!

I've read elsewhere that the bio-ethanol used in modern fuels evaporates at quite low temperatures and that is why the filter is always full of vapour...modern cars have a fuel return so the warm fuel from the engine compartment gets sent back to the tank to cool down. Before blaming the pump it may be best to fit a return to the tank?

Dom

Click to expand...

I tried what you suggested Dom but it didn't change the flow. But i've kept it routed like you suggest to eliminate that happening when I finally manage to get the fuel rate up!

Landrovernewbie said:

How do you rate the facet ones doc? Someone at work suggested their posi flo one giving 1.5-4 psi. Would my zenith cope or would I need a pressure reg?

I must say im considering one. Just having a think about where to fit it and how to protect it really.

Click to expand...

It worked well on the 74 V8 it was fitted to but as the V8's now sold and broken for spares its surplus to requirements

Landrovernewbie said:

How do you rate the facet ones doc? Someone at work suggested their posi flo one giving 1.5-4 psi. Would my zenith cope or would I need a pressure reg?

I must say im considering one. Just having a think about where to fit it and how to protect it really.

Click to expand...

my series v8 had a faccet and it was piped in a loop feed to the pump then into the engine bay and then it returned to the tank but in the engine bay it had a T off wich fed the fuel into the carbs and when the float chamber was full the fuel would go back to the tank not under any presh but the carbs always had a constant flow of fuel to take off no need for regs

Just an update really. Looking to fit an electric pump, but overnight some dirty pikey scumbag screwed my drivers door lock, and smashed all the ignition up trying to nick it. Probably would have got it if the pump was working, so all the work has been put back unfortunately.
She's currently sitting with the battery disconnected, ht leads removed feeling sorry for herself.