DIY Waxoyl

"Derry Argue" <derry(delete)@adviegundogs.co.uk> wrote in message
news:[email protected]...

< snip >
> We are talking about two different people. I have not lived on
> Speyside, where I suspect your mechanic is located, for over 35
> years!

Aahhh, my mistake. Sorry, from your email address I wrongly assumed that you
were on Speyside. If you do a search for Advie on autoroute you'll find
exactly where I meant, a few miles south of Aberlour down the A95. Due north
from advie - straight up the side of a steep hill - is the person I was
referring to, working out of an old smallholding.

> The guy "up on the hill" near me from Tain, Easter Ross, has
> been 100% straight and honest with me. He has done LR work for
> me as well as leasing my summer grazing during 2004. No problems
> whatsoever.
>
> Two completely different people.

Glad to hear that you have someone local you can trust, makes a big
difference.
Sorry for my misunderstandings mate.
Badger.

Huw wrote:

>
> Forget the clear stuff. Only the black is worth the effort.
>

I thought they were the same (apart from the colour ;-). Are they indeed
different?

Fred

They are the same except for the colour. I only use the clear stuff.




"Fred Labrosse" <[email protected]> wrote in message
news:[email protected]...
> Huw wrote:
>
>>
>> Forget the clear stuff. Only the black is worth the effort.
>>
>
> I thought they were the same (apart from the colour ;-). Are they indeed
> different?
>
> Fred
>

"Fred Labrosse" <[email protected]> wrote in message
news:[email protected]...
> Huw wrote:
>
>>
>> Forget the clear stuff. Only the black is worth the effort.
>>
>
> I thought they were the same (apart from the colour ;-). Are they indeed
> different?
>
> Fred
>


They are different and the black lasts much longer in areas prone to harsh
environments such as the wheelarch area and exposed chassis. Believe it,
because I have used both extensively over the years and have given up on the
clear stuff. Either are better than nothing though and are equally effective
in the medium term.

Huw

In article <[email protected]>, Huw wrote:
>
>>
>> I thought they were the same (apart from the colour ;-). Are they indeed
>> different?
>>
>> Fred
>>
>
>
> They are different and the black lasts much longer in areas prone to harsh
> environments such as the wheelarch area and exposed chassis. Believe it,
> because I have used both extensively over the years and have given up on the
> clear stuff. Either are better than nothing though and are equally effective
> in the medium term.
>
> Huw
>

I seem to remember that on the box the probe came in that it states to only
use the probe with the clear stuff. I didn't use the probe I brought but
I assumed they mention this because the clear stuff is thinner and won't
block it.


--
simon at sbarr dot demon dot co dot uk
Simon Barr.
'97 110 300Tdi.

Simon Barr wrote:

> In article <[email protected]>, Huw wrote:
>>
>>>
>>> I thought they were the same (apart from the colour ;-). Are they
>>> indeed different?
>>>
>>> Fred
>>>
>>
>>
>> They are different and the black lasts much longer in areas prone to
>> harsh environments such as the wheelarch area and exposed chassis.
>> Believe it, because I have used both extensively over the years and have
>> given up on the clear stuff. Either are better than nothing though and
>> are equally effective in the medium term.
>>
>> Huw
>>
>
> I seem to remember that on the box the probe came in that it states to
> only
> use the probe with the clear stuff. I didn't use the probe I brought but
> I assumed they mention this because the clear stuff is thinner and won't
> block it.

They have two types of black stuff. One is to be sprayed (like the clear
stuff and comes in the same containers, only marked black instead of
clear). The other is to be brushed on, and is indeed a lot thicker and
much more resistant and suitable for underbody and wheelarch.

My question was more about the sprayable one. I always thought they were
the same and are according to the box are to be used in the same way
(thinned with white spirit is to be sprayed).

Any definitive answer?

Fred

snip
>
> They are different and the black lasts much longer in areas prone to
harsh
> environments such as the wheelarch area and exposed chassis. Believe
it,
> because I have used both extensively over the years and have given up
on the
> clear stuff. Either are better than nothing though and are equally
effective
> in the medium term.
>
> Huw

There is very little difference between "black" and "clear" (which sets
to a sort of translucent amber colour) Waxoyl. The black stuff just
has 3% bitumen added to give it the black colour. That 3% is not
enough to make any appreciable difference to the abrasion resistance of
the "black" waxoyl. It is purely a matter of taste which you use. You
can use the clear if you want to keep the underside "honest", ie. not
cover anything up or black if you want to tidy everything up.

If you want to use something which is abrasion resistant then you need
to use "Waxoyl Underseal" which. The Waxoyl Underseal is not quite so
good at killing rust so there is a trade off. If the underside is a
bit rusty, better to put Waxoyl on first - leave it to set for about a
week and then apply Waxoyl Underseal over the top.

Take it from me, I know what I am talking about - I rusproof with
Waxoyl for a living and I have done my homework very thoroughly. (I do
everything very thorougly!)

Cheers Chris Parkinson
www.before-n-after.co.uk

[email protected] wrote:
> snip
>
>>They are different and the black lasts much longer in areas prone to
>
> harsh
>
>>environments such as the wheelarch area and exposed chassis. Believe
>
> it,
>
>>because I have used both extensively over the years and have given up
>
> on the
>
>>clear stuff. Either are better than nothing though and are equally
>
> effective
>
>>in the medium term.
>>
>>Huw
>
>
> There is very little difference between "black" and "clear" (which sets
> to a sort of translucent amber colour) Waxoyl. The black stuff just
> has 3% bitumen added to give it the black colour. That 3% is not
> enough to make any appreciable difference to the abrasion resistance of
> the "black" waxoyl. It is purely a matter of taste which you use. You
> can use the clear if you want to keep the underside "honest", ie. not
> cover anything up or black if you want to tidy everything up.
>
> If you want to use something which is abrasion resistant then you need
> to use "Waxoyl Underseal" which. The Waxoyl Underseal is not quite so
> good at killing rust so there is a trade off. If the underside is a
> bit rusty, better to put Waxoyl on first - leave it to set for about a
> week and then apply Waxoyl Underseal over the top.
>
> Take it from me, I know what I am talking about - I rusproof with
> Waxoyl for a living and I have done my homework very thoroughly. (I do
> everything very thorougly!)
>
> Cheers Chris Parkinson
> www.before-n-after.co.uk
>


Hello Chris see you get around a bit

Peter

scorpio wrote:


>
> Hello Chris see you get around a bit
>
> Peter

Hi Peter,

LOL. You know me - I've got to keep these diyers on the straight and
narrow

Cheers Chris

Hi Chris, I have actually thought of bringing the "beastie" down from
Anglesey for your attention as I want it done right and it sounds like one
hell of a lot of DIY hassle!. What does a 100" Disco come in as, a 90" or
110" for pricing ?

Cheers, Steve



<[email protected]> wrote in message
news:[email protected]...
>
> snip
>>
>> They are different and the black lasts much longer in areas prone to
> harsh
>> environments such as the wheelarch area and exposed chassis. Believe
> it,
>> because I have used both extensively over the years and have given up
> on the
>> clear stuff. Either are better than nothing though and are equally
> effective
>> in the medium term.
>>
>> Huw
>
> There is very little difference between "black" and "clear" (which sets
> to a sort of translucent amber colour) Waxoyl. The black stuff just
> has 3% bitumen added to give it the black colour. That 3% is not
> enough to make any appreciable difference to the abrasion resistance of
> the "black" waxoyl. It is purely a matter of taste which you use. You
> can use the clear if you want to keep the underside "honest", ie. not
> cover anything up or black if you want to tidy everything up.
>
> If you want to use something which is abrasion resistant then you need
> to use "Waxoyl Underseal" which. The Waxoyl Underseal is not quite so
> good at killing rust so there is a trade off. If the underside is a
> bit rusty, better to put Waxoyl on first - leave it to set for about a
> week and then apply Waxoyl Underseal over the top.
>
> Take it from me, I know what I am talking about - I rusproof with
> Waxoyl for a living and I have done my homework very thoroughly. (I do
> everything very thorougly!)
>
> Cheers Chris Parkinson
> www.before-n-after.co.uk
>

Does Waxoyl affect rubber components in any way? I had my suspicions on a couple of pipe ends, which, after using new pipe, the ends began to crack.

Also, how best to get behind the front air vent seals on the bulkhead, as I note this seems to be a rot spot. Tried going in from the hinge holes, but cannot go further than the upright. Is it an all dash of jobbie ?

I did find that by drilling a 20 mm hole on the inside of the base of the door pillar, I could get out a good inch of wet rusty mud properly, and for it to dry out. After easy waxolying the whole pillar from here, a 20mm blanking grommet works as a neat finish - plus I can clean it out in future.

After welding both front buklhead outriggers, I also opted for the holey approach, by putting two big 30mm holes into this almost sealed box - both ends on the underside. I learned this the hard way from the last landy that rotted due to a sweaty box !

Simon Barr said:

I did similar to Derry. The rear crossmember got derusted and cleaned, then
coated with two lots of POR15 followed by black Hammerite. A coat is needed
over the POR15 because it isn't UV stable and will deteriorate in sunlight.
--
simon at sbarr dot demon dot co dot uk
Simon Barr.
'97 110 300Tdi.

Click to expand...

How much POR15 and Hammerite did you use????
And did you cover the hole underside with paint???