Discovery Rust - Boot, Sills and Wings

gutted, i cant help with that, i so far am lucky not to have too many electrical gremlins, (apart from indicators not flashing when i lock but to when i unlock lol)

on another note, do you know the diameter of the "thick" trailing arms, want to make sure iv got the right ones before i start with the grinder.

The thick trailing arms have the ends like mine, which are slightly wedged.

Yeah the axle fitting on the end is the easiest way to tell, the thin ones have a nice rounded cast looking fitting welded on whereas the thick ones have a squarer piece which looks more like extruded section simply butt welded right on the end there.

Regards your wiring Ian, the circuit is positive switched, the positive supply to the switch is the green and the switched feed from the switch is the green/brown.

This travels in a loom up the N/S of the transmission tunnel and to the brown bulkhead multiplug on the N/S of the car.

This is quite easily visible from the engine bay but it is easier to remove the glove box thing to view from the inside. Could be a bad connection here?

After that the wire heads into the main dash loom, but it will split somewhere because the wiring for the rear lights runs down either side of the roof seam inside the car behind the head lining.

First off see if you have a switched feed coming out of the inboard side of that brown multiplug.

If not, bingo, if so it's time to open up the loom and find where the two wires meet.

At the bottom of each A pillar there are multiplugs that connect the roof looks to the dash loom but because the feed had already split into 2 the fault must be before that split, which will be lurking in the loom behind the dash not far from the brown multiplug hopefully.

Most likely it will split in one of those grey coloured junction things.

Anyway, lets walk before we run so check out that multiplug

Here be the multiplug brown in colour



The green brown on my car is in the 11 oclock position outside, corresponding to the 1 o'clock position inside the car.

Hope that helps

Understood Noisy and thanks.

I crawled under the car last night, I got bored at 8pm and ****ed off trying to park with no lights lol. I have a switched feed to the switch and I checked the switch out and that works fine. I just didn't know where the wires ran, until now that is.

I will check the plug tomorrow and then see where we go. Cheers dude...

Yeah 80,000 views

:biggrin1::biggrin1::biggrin1::biggrin1:

New reversing switch ordered today. Problem turned out to be too much resistance from the switch even though I had continuity. Bastard.

Utter bastard

Congrats on the views! HERO!

Just a few views then mate,nice work : )

So today I spent a bit of time working on my front suspension. After the lift and suspension mods, the front axle has rotated a total of 8.5degrees. Unfortunately no-one makes any arms that can tackle that kind of caster correction so the job is left to yours truly.

So far I have looked at bending std arms like Gwynn Lewis does, but to rotate the axles so far, the required bend would make the chassis bush much too stressed, plus the bend would shorted the arm too much. I have looked at 6degree arms but they are still not going to move the axle enough.

I have embarked on a method of adjusting the caster at the axle and using std arms, if all goes well it will be a bolt on kit that you can eventually adjust to suit any caster.

I would take some photos but tbh I don't want people knowing what I'm up to lol James Bond stuff hahaha

I can tell you though, that when you work on your radius arms, don't have the full west of the vehicle on the tyres as it has a tendency to roll on the spring seats and scare the **** out of you lol.

On another note I have done some research on the front drive flange angles. It appears that the drive flanges should be parallel to each other, however, even when I adjust the axle back to the correct caster, the drive flanges of the front prop connection and the transfer box, are out by a fair amount.

I can't seem to find the std angle they are relative to each other, so can some one please help?

After messing around with this, I started adding some final mounting positions to the front bumper. At present I am using just the std chassis mounts, two bolts each side. However when winching in yesterday and stowing away the hook, I noticed that the bumper may be able to twist slightly.

To correct this and make sure that the front end can take a hard impact, I am adding two extra mounts to the front plane of the bumper securing directly back to the welded in winch plate.

I should have it done tomorrow so I will post the pics. I may also add an A bar as well if I fancy it.

Now, where are my diff bearings............

If you can invent a DIY radius castor adjustor you'll be my hero

Get some pics up and stop being tight :lol:

Well today I got the templates and plans sorted for my axle adapters, just need to put it into solidworks so I can get the first set made and the test them.

At first the adapters will be marked so a customer can choose between 3, 6 or 8 degrees caster correction based on the angle of their spring seats. As std the seats are supposed to be level. As I said before, mine are out by 8.5 degrees.

The next step will be adjustable adapters and arms. Like I said before, I really need to know what the std angle is for the drive flanges.

Sounds interesting mr hornet ; )
I got a mate with a standard disco,u want me to measure/take piccy etc ??

That would be very useful. The measumenets are from vertical if that is understandable.

So if the transfer box flange is vertical then apparently the pinion gear flange should be vertical too, but they aren't as std as far as I can tell lol.

My Disco is standard, but I do not know the bits you are talking about. Will photos help..?

Pretty sure the front diff nose points very much up in the air as standard, and the rear diff nose points fairly level, if not slightly up.

Defo not level at the front though.

I'll bob out and have a gander in a min and report back











In exchange for free castor adjustment

Standard height 300tdi.



I can find out an exact angle if you specify a datum to work off.

"the floor"

will curvature of the earth affect the measurement?

I meant is there a flat surface on the diff to stick a level on?

Are you meaning to take a floor to ctr of axel then floor to ctr of output to calc the difference?