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David Drew said:
Right, Dying & Faring Duck time again.Read some posts on this but...

Seems the fix is to blank off the pipe that goes into the solenoid that the EGR vacuum pipe comes out of.

Can someone confirm that that does not affect any other function.

Thanks

David
Click to expand...

Hi,

The little pipe from the junction of the plastic pipes has no other function than operating the EGR vacuum so cannot affect anything else.

Have you read my suggestion of a little metal pin like from the IKEA shelving supports?

S.
 
Singvogel said:
Hi,

The little pipe from the junction of the plastic pipes has no other function than operating the EGR vacuum so cannot affect anything else.

Have you read my suggestion of a little metal pin like from the IKEA shelving supports?

S.
Click to expand...

Have quite a few of those around, so that'll do nicely.

Thanks everyone.

David
 
Ok, here we go.

Things I have done so far seem to have made a big difference to fuel consumption. I haven't refuelled yet but I have gone about 70% extra on the same movement of the gauge. I'm waiting to see the results when I need to do a full tank refill.

Done:-

EGR bypass
New silicone turbo hoses, not the bottom one though.
Synergy 2e set on No7
Pierburgh MAF
PVC looks clean
Air filter clean

Anything else needs doing?

Anything else engine-wise to help reliability? (06 TD4 Auto)

Thanks again to all those who have chipped in with suggestions so far.

David
 
David Drew said:
Tuning-diesels for synergy tuning modules.

I fitted the new MAF sensor too & the whole kit was about £250.

Really easy to fit. Watch out if you do buy one because only some of the settings can be used with a Pierburgh MAF (7 to 9 I think)

Good luck

David
Click to expand...

The Synergy2a has 10 settings. I'm not so familiar with the e version.

1 to 5 are for the original Bosch MAF.

6 to 10 are for the the Pierburg MAF

Don't forget the optional dash switch to select eco / power/ or off. (e version gives no extra power ;))

Brilliant piece of kit - puts back what LandRover tuned out of the engine.

Puts fun into driving the Freelander.

Singvogel.
 
Is the Pierburg MAF an aftermarket unit or just something fitted to later turbo diesels ?

What version would you recommend if you just wanted to give an 04 TD4 some more responsiveness when pulling away ? My girlfriend has just got an auto TD4 and it just seems crap when pulling away from standstill, can't imagine shes ever going to go over 70 mph in it and doesn't do many long journeys, I think the slow pull away might do her head in after a while !!
 
Oh yeah, I don't think she want to see any extra switches on the dashboard or anywhere and I might have to install it secretely ;)
 
SimonBUK said:
Is the Pierburg MAF an aftermarket unit or just something fitted to later turbo diesels ?

What version would you recommend if you just wanted to give an 04 TD4 some more responsiveness when pulling away ? My girlfriend has just got an auto TD4 and it just seems crap when pulling away from standstill, can't imagine shes ever going to go over 70 mph in it and doesn't do many long journeys, I think the slow pull away might do her head in after a while !!
Click to expand...

If as you say starting off is crap then a Synergy wont help.

Crap compared with what though?

A standard spec Freelander auto is reasonably quick off the mark - so before fitting any expensive gizmos you need to be sure that everything is working as it should.

Apart from the obvious air-filter these items need to be checked:

Have a read up on -

EGR- probably full of gunge. Minimum work is clean and then de-activate so it doesn't gunk up again.

pcv - needs changed or better still upgraded to the BMW part.

Turbo solenoid vent filter - often forgotten - replace.

Turbo hoses - little power if these are split.

The MAF could be past it - disconnect and see if it runs better on the default setting.

If you're satisfied that all these are OK then fit something that will improve performance.

Singvogel.
 
I guess its crap compared to smaller petrol engined cars so might not be a fair comparison !! Accelarator pedal seems to have a bit of movement too before anything happens so might just need getting use to it a bit more before I do anything radical.
When I have some time I'll check some of those things already mentioned, its due a service as well as it was 15K since the last so new filters at least will be done.
 
Singvogel said:
15K since last service!!!!

I think you've just given the answer to the crap performance then.

S.
Click to expand...

Yeah, just bought it and knew it needed a service. Going for a long drive down to Devon tomorrow (200+miles there + driving around for the week), what can be done before then ? Just change the air filter I guess ?

Is it 12K normally between services ? (or a year).
 
Going for a long drive down to Devon tomorrow .. .. Just change the air filter I guess ?
Click to expand...


you might not get that done in time for a tmrw trip ..
i.e. if you've not yet had the great experience of refitting the air-filter cover :)
it might just go back on instantly .. or it could take some time with lots of swearing ..
( plus you'll need a long handled allen head driver to reach the rear cover bolts .. )

that 'n you'll probably have to remove / loosen some of the intercooler hoses
to get the air filter cover off in the first place ..

~~~~~~~

check all the fluid levels .. tyre pressures ( 30psi all around normaly )
'n stick some redex-fuel-system-cleaner / or millers .. in the fuel .. 'n go ..


Is it 12K normally between services ? (or a year)
Click to expand...

yes .. but haynes recommends 6k miles or 6 months for engine oil change
( a Pela pump from 'machinemart' can be useful for a mess-free oil change ..
( use that at a 6month .. then for the 12month remove undertray to drain sump fully
( 'cause the Pela won't remove every last drop of oil from the sump
buy a haynes manual for it ..
 
Oh great !! Bloody typical - can't even change an air filter easily !!

Right, it'll just be the redex then !!
 
Ok, just done another brim to brim.

278 miles, the first 100 of which was just the Synergy 2e and the rest with the EGR bypass.

Mixed motorway and town/country.

29 mpg...still some work to be done I reckon.

How do I get this up to mid-30s?

Thanks all,

David
 
David Drew said:
Ok, just done another brim to brim.

278 miles, the first 100 of which was just the Synergy 2e and the rest with the EGR bypass.

Mixed motorway and town/country.

29 mpg...still some work to be done I reckon.

How do I get this up to mid-30s?

Thanks all,

David
Click to expand...
Not much less than I get and that's with all the mods and the Synergy 2a with Eco switch. Tried all the (in my opinion) tricks of two stroke and injector cleaner and still get just over 30 mpg. Perhaps we should wear lighter right shoes as no matter what else I do I still can't get anywhere near some other members figures.:confused:
 
nickcc said:
Perhaps we should wear lighter right shoes as no matter what else I do I still can't get anywhere near some other members figures.:confused:
Click to expand...

yeh, that's with a real light foot. No heavy acceleration.

One thing I think does not help is that it seems to hold the lower gears when cold - maybe the first couple of miles. Guess the 'box needs to heat up first. Seems OK after that.

Synergy 2e set on 7 for the Pierburgh MAF and low torque. Wonder if 8 or 9 would help?
 
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