Chassis protection

Thanks for all the info guys

its a great help

dirtyrhino said:

LOLZ - I nearly posted the same link.

Just make sure to blow out all the ****e from the legs before you apply it inside. I normally jam a pressure washer inside a leg and let it blast as much ****e out as possible, and then dry it with an air line and a day or two in the workshop to air dry.

I'd wait until things warm up a bit before you go doing any treatments though fella - unless you have a nice warm workshop or garage

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are we still on about your wife!

some peoples minds lol

She hates cold hands...... even more so when they're covered in Hypoid....

Sorry to thread hijack slightly, but I'm about to paint up my chassis and was gonna ask which product use. How much of this stuff will I be likely to need for an 88" chassis?

Cheers.

Tom

I've read some things about POR (now, and about a year ago), and I really dislike the fact it is just a hard paint (and a VERY expensive one).
I tried epoxy glue (some special mix, not just the cheap version from round the corner. I used one of those they use on boats and ships...) and the footwell I did with it is doing great. Huge advantage over the special rust products: You dont have to mix colour in, so you can check on the metal beneath.

If using epoxy glue is an option for you, I can find the box in the cellar and make some photos of the patch I used it on. I paid about 30 quid for 1.5 litres of glue (1l glue, about 400ml hardener). If it tickles your fancy you can dye it red or black...

I used Owatrol (light oil type rustproofing) on a midget once. Midgets rust MUCH more than the all the series LR I know. The stuff was worthless for the midget (didnt even slow it down), but the wooden window frames I put it on look nice.

I've found the homepage where I ordered it. Google, translate:
Google Translate
This one I will use on my chassis when it gets warmer.
I've used this because I had to use it with fibreglass material to cover a small hole in the drivers footwell, about 2x5 inches:
Google Translate
The first one is more of a liquid, the second one is less runny.

I've used both systems in the past, along with other hybrid mixes ( I used to work with composites and substrate bonding agents ) and POR is a good, well priced option IMHO.

Epoxy has it's benefits, it also has many many flaws if not mixed and applied properly.

Tom87 said:

Sorry to thread hijack slightly, but I'm about to paint up my chassis and was gonna ask which product use. How much of this stuff will I be likely to need for an 88" chassis?

Cheers.

Tom

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They do a really well priced chassis kit at Frost - I used one kit to paint my Buick chassis ( almost the same size as an 88 - give or take a foot ) and still had a fair bt left to do a 3rd coat on the spring hangers and crossmember...... 1 pint covers aboot 4sq meters apparently..

dirtyrhino said:

I've used both systems in the past, along with other hybrid mixes ( I used to work with composites and substrate bonding agents ) and POR is a good, well priced option IMHO.

Epoxy has it's benefits, it also has many many flaws if not mixed and applied properly.

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Did you work with epoxy glue? Would you rather take thinner or thinner epoxy? Or do you think that POR is easier/better? I really dislike that I don't see through POR, and the technical data on POR (drying times, rel humidity, temp etc) is too vague for my liking..

We worked with Epoxy, Phenolic, Polymer and hybrid compounds.

POR is, after all, a commercial product, so i'd expect to see the released data sheets to be kinda vague in some aspects, and it's designed to cure under pretty forgiving conditions, so for "normal" domestic applications it's bloody good.

Don't get me wrong - i'm not dismissing the use of an Epoxy as a coating - afterall, moist paints and treatments are based on it - but for the "average Joe" if a stand alone resin system is not mixed right, then there can be problems with cure times, flexibility, brittleness blah blah blah.

dirtyrhino said:

They do a really well priced chassis kit at Frost - I used one kit to paint my Buick chassis ( almost the same size as an 88 - give or take a foot ) and still had a fair bt left to do a 3rd coat on the spring hangers and crossmember...... 1 pint covers aboot 4sq meters apparently..

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Cheers for that mate, have already ordered half a litre of POR-15 though :doh: to see how it goes really, but I may well get that kit too if I like the stuff!

PS. Love the avatar - he's my favourite superhero :lol:

Thanks for the comments i will prob go for this kit
Dinitrol Rust Proof Kit any comments has anybody used it

dinitrol is the best out there, it what most of the trade use after effecting car body repairs as they have to still provide an anti perferation guarantee same as the manufacturers original one

bmp42 said:

dinitrol is the best out there, it what most of the trade use after effecting car body repairs as they have to still provide an anti perferation guarantee same as the manufacturers original one

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Totally agree

Thanks Guys

Only tip I can give after you have used the protective coatings, is to paint the outside of the chassis a light colour.....if anything does start coming through, you will see it before it gets too far!