bringing the bhp back to original spec

hi guys, really getting there with my beauty now, done lots of bits that you do see like the modified crankcase filter, egr bypass, silicone hoses, well in ordering my new clutch this week then next some nice new tyres but after that its the remap at amd an that got me thinking....

obviously my beauty has lost some horses over the years, shes an 02 plate, so before doing the remap id like to bring her performance right back up to near original if possible? Is there any things i can do to do this, ill say the smart ass answer first... Buy a new engine lol but is there anything else i can do?i know its not a sports car lol but in sure there must be afew things we can do to really make a Freelander up its game.

look forward to hearing everyones thoughts

rich31 said:

hi guys, really getting there with my beauty now, done lots of bits that you do see like the modified crankcase filter, egr bypass, silicone hoses, well in ordering my new clutch this week then next some nice new tyres but after that its the remap at amd an that got me thinking....

obviously my beauty has lost some horses over the years, shes an 02 plate, so before doing the remap id like to bring her performance right back up to near original if possible? Is there any things i can do to do this, ill say the smart ass answer first... Buy a new engine lol but is there anything else i can do?i know its not a sports car lol but in sure there must be afew things we can do to really make a Freelander up its game.

look forward to hearing everyones thoughts

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I guess it's a TD4
Bringing it back to original spec' performance, you may be able to do better than that!
Check the induction side of things:

• All breather pipes / hoses in good condition and securely fastened?
• No obstructions or protrusions fouling incoming air? I've a K series 1.8 and the inlet manifold had lots of plastic protrusions, 'flash' I think it's called, left there from manufacture.
• Clean air filter? there is debate on the merits of OE vs a 'performance' filter, general consensus is original is good and add ons are of dubious benefit.
• If you have an intercooler is it clean internally and externally - doing its job well?
• Exhaust -as per inlet side. No obstructions to gas flow? welding splatter in the pipes, joins aligned? muffler in good order, ports matching?
• Injectors working correctly? - some have commented a fuel additive works wonders!
• Cooling system in good order? cleaned recently?
• Thermostat working correctly?
• Radiator clear externally?
• Correct coolant in the motor?
• Drive belts in good order and adjusted correctly?
• Appropriate grade of oil?
• Tyre pressures correct?
• VCU in good working order?
• Brakes not binding?
• Not carrying excess baggage in the vehicle are you? - tools, camping gear - golf clubs...
• Aerodymanically clean? Roof bars / rack, radio antenna, lights suck HP & fuel.
• Not overburdening the alternator with lots of electrical goodies running?

Most of the above a cheap [free] and easy to do.

Now that's what in talking about, cheers mate. Gave me a new list of things to do, what's the additive you mentioned, yea td4 it is

rich31 said:

Now that's what in talking about, cheers mate. Gave me a new list of things to do, what's the additive you mentioned, yea td4 it is

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I'm not completely sure but I think it's Diesel Rhino. Do a search on here and i'm sure you'll find info' about it. Most speak well of it. Some have used a measure of two stroke oil with a tank of diesel too, but I don't know what quantity.

Yep. Get yourself some Diesel Rhino. Run it for a few tank fulls are the recommended 3:2:1 ratios.

It will do wonders for the engine, cleaning it out and protecting it as well as upping the cetane rating.

Have a look at www.dieselrhino.co.uk. (I think that is the right address. If not, Google it!!!!

Is that better the the millers additive ive heard about on here

What other little bits can i do for pushing up the performance of my beauty? Any small upgrades people can recommend that don't screw with the reliability of her? Cheers guys loving the post so far, thanx again

rich31 said:

Is that better the the millers additive ive heard about on here

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Way better and it's British.

LAND ROVER FREELANDER 1 TD4 NEW COMPLETE CLUTCH KIT, SLAVE CYLINDER & BEARING | eBay

Hi guys on a side note in ordering my new clutch today as its really heavy an the bite point is nearly full down with my foot, is the one on the above link everything i need as it seemed too cheap

Bg engine service you won't regret it

rich31 said:

LAND ROVER FREELANDER 1 TD4 NEW COMPLETE CLUTCH KIT, SLAVE CYLINDER & BEARING | eBay

Hi guys on a side note in ordering my new clutch today as its really heavy an the bite point is nearly full down with my foot, is the one on the above link everything i need as it seemed too cheap

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Thats everything.

BUT

your car has a dual mass flywheel. If its ok, then cool beans. If it has play then it needs replaced too, or swapped out for a solid flywheel conversion (which is what I am doing - just waiting for the bits to arrive). Mine gave no symptoms of wear in use, but the rotational and axial free play were quite noticeable....it would have been pointless to re-use it as failure is probably not far off.

Also, when changing the clutch, you may as well fit new driveshaft oil seals - one in the gearbox and one in the IRD and you should really renew the o-ring between IRD and gearbox.

There's allways something hey hahaha thought it was too cheap to be good lol is there any symptoms for problems with my fly wheel, i think my current problem is due to the slave cylinder but could an probably am wrong lol, so what's a fly wheel going to set me back, ill do the other little bits you mentioned too, ohh how i do love ordering wall these little bots on the net, cheers guys

Bear in mind that a low biting point could just be the system needing bleeding. Also, from what I gather, a low bite point is a common thing on td4's even with perfect clutches.
A "heavy" pedal is pretty subjective and not necessarily an indicator of a worn clutch.
Im changing mine because it was slipping.

A new dual mass flywheel costs anything from £400 - £700 or so. I am using a Valeo single mass flywheel conversion kit which comes with solid flywheel, clutch disc and cover for a little over £400 (its slightly cheaper here in France). I am buying the slave and a new master cylinder from UK though for about £90 the pair.

A worn dual mass flywheel can show up as a regular rumbling at idle speed from the bellhousing area and shuddering or banging noises when taking up drive. Mine did none of these but now that its off, I can turn the inner section almost a quarter turn by hand before it touches the springs and it rocks about 2mm at either edge, which is well outside recommended spec.

So is it worth me buying that clutch kit above or just waiting an save to get the full kit including the fly wheel?

My foot is literally fully down to change gear an its pretty heavy with such a small margin for changing gears compared to other cars i drive

Ordered the diesel rhino last night an going to start going through that list over the weekend ��fun times