Brake lights...

Ventured out for its first run and I've noticed a couple of times that when I get out the brake lights come on of their own accord If I dab the brake pedal they usually go off and stay off but sometimes it takes a couple of attempts.
Any ideas? Rob

I guess its non servo so is the switch above the brake pedal? Give it a blast with electrical cleaner.

Have you fitted the spring to hold the pedal up?

Rodeo Joe said:

I guess its non servo so is the switch above the brake pedal? Give it a blast with electrical cleaner.

Click to expand...

It is non servo and the switch is on a five way jobber on the chassis. All the brake components are new apart from the master cylinder

Hicap phill said:

Have you fitted the spring to hold the pedal up?

Click to expand...

I have

Is the master cylinder free play set up correctly to allow the fluid back to resevoir.

Seems I also have fluid coming back through the reservoir cap

Blackburn said:

Is the master cylinder free play set up correctly to allow the fluid back to resevoir.

Click to expand...

No idea

Make sure you have a breather hole in the cap

Suck some fluid out so you have 3/4 of a pot
Your new brake drum springs are working well. Set the snails.
Is the brake switch electronic? (Take photo please)

Marmaduke said:

It is non servo and the switch is on a five way jobber on the chassis. All the brake components are new apart from the master cylinder

Click to expand...

You mean it's a pressure switch in the hydraulic system rather than a mechanical switch on the pedal?
Terrible idea, although usually the failure mechanism is that they aren't sensitive enough so the brake lights don't come on unless you're breaking quite hard. Or they just start leaking.
If you have the option of swapping to a mechanical switch (ie, somewhere to mount it), that would be my preference. Otherwise, try a new switch?

Did you rebuild the car or someone else?

Inline brake switch is normally super reliable, mine is ancient, they are easy enough to replace, Be aware Iirc there are two different thread types, might help to burp it, ie remove the two wires and loosen the switch unitil fluid start to weep, then get someone to lightly pump the pedal as you retighten the switch.

If you look in the fluid reservior, the correct level is just above the internal tube.

Take the six screws out of the plate above the brake pedal under the bonnet remove plate, below plate is master cylinder pushrod with brakes not applied you should be able to move the pushrod a couple of mm this is to allow the piston in master cylinder to return fully ie not being pushed by the pushrod.

lynall said:

Did you rebuild the car or someone else?

Inline brake switch is normally super reliable, mine is ancient, they are easy enough to replace, Be aware Iirc there are two different thread types, might help to burp it, ie remove the two wires and loosen the switch unitil fluid start to weep, then get someone to lightly pump the pedal as you retighten the switch.

If you look in the fluid reservior, the correct level is just above the internal tube.

Click to expand...

'Twas me so I can't blame anyone else

Marmaduke said:

'Twas me so I can't blame anyone else

Click to expand...

Not being anal, even though I am at times! get some rubber lined p clips, that plain one will chew through that wire loom pdq.
I like nice tidy stuff and when I see nice things like yours the extra effort makes all the difference, not many will even notice it, but you will get some serious respect from those saddos that do.

If you search there is a correct pedal beight to be set, it is something like 150mm top of pedal vertically down to the floor, adjusted by the bolt at the front of the brake box.
Then adjust the master cylinder free play at the pushrod as detailed by Blackburn above.
Single line system needs everything to be adjusted correctly, and then its pretty damned good.

This bolt in your pic adjusts pedal height

lynall said:

Not being anal, even though I am at times! get some rubber lined p clips, that plain one will chew through that wire loom pdq.
I like nice tidy stuff and when I see nice things like yours the extra effort makes all the difference, not many will even notice it, but you will get some serious respect from those saddos that do.

If you search there is a correct pedal beight to be set, it is something like 150mm top of pedal vertically down to the floor, adjusted by the bolt at the front of the brake box.
Then adjust the master cylinder free play at the pushrod as detailed by Blackburn above.
Single line system needs everything to be adjusted correctly, and then its pretty damned good.

This bolt in your pic adjusts pedal height

View attachment 213200

Click to expand...

I'd better get a couple spare then for the ones down the wing

lynall said:

Not being anal, even though I am at times! get some rubber lined p clips, that plain one will chew through that wire loom pdq.
I like nice tidy stuff and when I see nice things like yours the extra effort makes all the difference, not many will even notice it, but you will get some serious respect from those saddos that do.

If you search there is a correct pedal beight to be set, it is something like 150mm top of pedal vertically down to the floor, adjusted by the bolt at the front of the brake box.
Then adjust the master cylinder free play at the pushrod as detailed by Blackburn above.
Single line system needs everything to be adjusted correctly, and then its pretty damned good.

This bolt in your pic adjusts pedal height

View attachment 213200

Click to expand...

The do, I use the lined clips. You can use old inner tube or wrape the loom, but as they are they wil saw into the loom.

Hi,
That all looks very smart,i am a newbie to land rovers so excuse the presumption, but....
When everything is checked and working o.k it may pay to wrap your loom and check anywhere that there is a edge,it is not a case of 'if' but 'when' for wiring failure if it loose or rubbing,rubber gromets can be cut and superglued to install if the loom is all connected,the brake lines have to be likewise insulated in similar areas as well,
I have had many,many bikes and the principle is the same,i have also installed some inline fuses to my series on some unfused components for peace of mind.
great job,
All the best

Ryn
wet and warm west cornwall

rynner said:

Hi,
That all looks very smart,i am a newbie to land rovers so excuse the presumption, but....
When everything is checked and working o.k it may pay to wrap your loom and check anywhere that there is a edge,it is not a case of 'if' but 'when' for wiring failure if it loose or rubbing,rubber gromets can be cut and superglued to install if the loom is all connected,the brake lines have to be likewise insulated in similar areas as well,
I have had many,many bikes and the principle is the same,i have also installed some inline fuses to my series on some unfused components for peace of mind.
great job,
All the best

Ryn
wet and warm west cornwall

Click to expand...

Wrap it!!! Wash your mouth out
There is a retro looking fuse box on the bulkhead that everything is running through

Blackburn said:

Take the six screws out of the plate above the brake pedal under the bonnet remove plate, below plate is master cylinder pushrod with brakes not applied you should be able to move the pushrod a couple of mm this is to allow the piston in master cylinder to return fully ie not being pushed by the pushrod.

Click to expand...

lynall said:

Not being anal, even though I am at times! get some rubber lined p clips, that plain one will chew through that wire loom pdq.
I like nice tidy stuff and when I see nice things like yours the extra effort makes all the difference, not many will even notice it, but you will get some serious respect from those saddos that do.

If you search there is a correct pedal beight to be set, it is something like 150mm top of pedal vertically down to the floor, adjusted by the bolt at the front of the brake box.
Then adjust the master cylinder free play at the pushrod as detailed by Blackburn above.
Single line system needs everything to be adjusted correctly, and then its pretty damned good.

This bolt in your pic adjusts pedal height

View attachment 213200

Click to expand...

Finally got 'round to having a look. Adjusted the pedal height and noticed this was on the wrong way around


Slo the springs weren't pulling the pedals all the way back....
Now to tune the carb

Told you .... must be getting better working/guessing on sheds..