Freelander 1 Auto 1.8

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Watching this with interest .
I am modifying a kit car using r75 1.8t and autobox but using many Freelander 1 auto bits too.
I am using a facelift fl1 gear selector and box ECU so I get the sport shift(r75 didn't have that)
With a mgf stepspeed steering you get flappy paddle shift too!
I have a pre facelift(not a green one though) fl1 instrument set from a 1.8 , it shows all the gearbox position info when plugged into my td4 fl1 so should work fine, perhaps this means your facelift instruments will show the auto info for you too!.
I will be interested to see how you get the AWD Freelander box on the 1.8 , something I would love to have on my build.
 
How's this project coming along Philip? I have been catching up on my reading of this thread - have you got the timing ring conundrum cracked yet? :)
 
I had to take a break for a few days because last weekend I went to pick up my daughter from the airport in the Jag and when I put my foot on the brake pedal it went straight to the floor and left a big pool of brake fluid on the ground.

Also the AC compressor has seized solid.

I absolutely must have one nice car that still works out of the four that I own (five including SWMBOs) or I get depressed, and the Jag is it.

I promise that normal service will be resumed shortly.
 
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Thinking a trinary switch could fit in place of the F1 pressure switch. It may fit too, looks similar size. The F1 doesn't have an Evaporator temp sensor either but this could be fitted. I think the above description, where it says that the trinary "helps control the speed of the engine fan" actually means it helps control of the speed of the A/C fan.

Is it your A/C fan or the engine cooling that is running continuously? Other descriptions suggest they are 2 separate systems, but the above has got me to check??
 
Referring to your Jag problem, glad no one was hurt. It does appear that when you have more than one vehicle they all decide to let you down together!!
 
Freelander 1 TD4. Actually pretty good, SWMBO drives it but hates paying ULEZ charges.
Freelander 1 K1.8. Rusty sills, clutch and not a diesel therefore SWMBO stalls it and it hurts my knee.
Rover 25. Clutch eventually hurts my knee and motorway driving requires ear defenders. Not a "nice" car.
Jag XJ. A/C broken and not ULEZ compliant.
Peugeot 604. Big holes in chassis rail and engine above engine bay rather then in engine bay.

If I can get this 1.8 auto working then the 25 can be taken off the road, the TD4 can be sold and I could get on with restoring the 604. It would take me from 5 to 3 which would be a lot more manageable. And SWMBO would stop moaning about ULEZ. And my knee wouldn't hurt.
 
pscan.eu said:
Freelander 1 TD4. Actually pretty good, SWMBO drives it but hates paying ULEZ charges.
Freelander 1 K1.8. Rusty sills, clutch and not a diesel therefore SWMBO stalls it and it hurts my knee.
Rover 25. Clutch eventually hurts my knee and motorway driving requires ear defenders. Not a "nice" car.
Jag XJ. A/C broken and not ULEZ compliant.
Peugeot 604. Big holes in chassis rail and engine above engine bay rather then in engine bay.

If I can get this 1.8 auto working then the 25 can be taken off the road, the TD4 can be sold and I could get on with restoring the 604. It would take me from 5 to 3 which would be a lot more manageable. And SWMBO would stop moaning about ULEZ. And my knee wouldn't hurt.
Click to expand...
I feel your knee pain. I drive an auto for the same reason. 🙄

You should consider converting one to electric. I've heard a couple of idiots on the forum are doing it . 😋
 
Alibro said:
I feel your knee pain. I drive an auto for the same reason. 🙄

You should consider converting one to electric. I've heard a couple of idiots on the forum are doing it . 😋
Click to expand...
Osgood-Schlatters. Had it since I was a teenager. I got away with about 25 years of driving with a clutch until it became a problem.

What's the range of an electric FL1? If this auto thingy doesn't work then I suppose it could be a plan B.
 
Brake pedal to the floor is not a mode of failure that I would particularly enjoy :-0

I have way, WAY too many cars at the moment, but it is difficult to find the one(s) that need to go. One MGF is the one that I've owned from new and I don't feel that I can ever part with. The other MGF is my race car. The 1929 MG M-type is a family heir loom. The MG ZR is the car I rebuilt with the kids for them to learn to drive in. They're still learning. The FL1 is my first venture into off-roading, and I can greenlane it without worrying about the paint. I have a Mk3 Triumph Spitfire that is the first car I bought with my own money as a student. It's ULEZ exempt - so I should probably get that going ASAP, as neither of my MGFs are!

Then into the modern stuff - a Disco Sport which is the family mover for holidays and generally moving stuff, including my elderly father who finds it the easiest to get in and out of. A VW eUP! is our little electric city runabout. And somehow I've managed to end up with my father's Mini Countryman that he is determined that my daughter should have once she can drive...

The modern stuff could potentially be rationalised to one vehicle, but the older vehicles I have too much emotional investment in... argh! And yes, there is a mighty to-do list right now on these older vehicles. I need some time off work just to get them all perfect again. No idea when that is likely to happen though!
 
Interestingly - the early F1 1.8 had a trinary switch and a different air con arrangement that looks like the R 75.

Will compare in detail, may be possible to go back to the early wiring and use the R 75 ECU as it is?
 
rob_bell said:
Brake pedal to the floor is not a mode of failure that I would particularly enjoy :-0

I have way, WAY too many cars at the moment, but it is difficult to find the one(s) that need to go. One MGF is the one that I've owned from new and I don't feel that I can ever part with. The other MGF is my race car. The 1929 MG M-type is a family heir loom. The MG ZR is the car I rebuilt with the kids for them to learn to drive in. They're still learning. The FL1 is my first venture into off-roading, and I can greenlane it without worrying about the paint. I have a Mk3 Triumph Spitfire that is the first car I bought with my own money as a student. It's ULEZ exempt - so I should probably get that going ASAP, as neither of my MGFs are!

Then into the modern stuff - a Disco Sport which is the family mover for holidays and generally moving stuff, including my elderly father who finds it the easiest to get in and out of. A VW eUP! is our little electric city runabout. And somehow I've managed to end up with my father's Mini Countryman that he is determined that my daughter should have once she can drive...

The modern stuff could potentially be rationalised to one vehicle, but the older vehicles I have too much emotional investment in... argh! And yes, there is a mighty to-do list right now on these older vehicles. I need some time off work just to get them all perfect again. No idea when that is likely to happen though!
Click to expand...
Off topic a bit but I can really relate to this post, with the ownership of one solitary boat. A 1964 wooden folkboat that has been in my family for over 25 years. Dad and I restored it some years ago and it has provided so many great memories. It's slow, has really low headroom and requires a huge amount of maintenance to keep it in fine fettle. My 84 year old dad has just sold it to me for £1, thus giving me quite a liability, but it can't ever go.

My sole FL1 ownership is getting a bit long in the tooth now too so I'm starting to feel similarly about that too.
 
rob_bell said:
I know. It's probably daft to create emotional bonds to mechanical things, but there you go...
Click to expand...
It's why I'll never be wealthy. We had a bit of a similar issue with a 1968 Triumph motorbike which dad was given literally in a chest of drawers in the early 80's. He did it up and used to take me to school and the football on it. Sadly he had to sell it a good few years ago and we still regret it to this day. I was hoping to inherit that one day too.
 
According to the schematics the two a/c switches are connected to the instruments which sends out data for it over the canbus so the engine ECU knows for the idle and a/c clutch operation.
 
dazq said:
According to the schematics the two a/c switches are connected to the instruments which sends out data for it over the canbus so the engine ECU knows for the idle and a/c clutch operation.
Click to expand...
The only wiring diagram that I have for a K1.8 Freelander is for a year 2002 LHD.
According to that:-

C0275-4 on the A/C switch goes to C0233-13 on the instrument panel.
I don't see anything else to do with A/C going the instrument panel. When you say "two a/c switches" what do you mean by the second one please?

I also see a two pin "evaporator sensor" connecting to C0914-37 and C0914-47 of the MEMS3.

I also see a three pin "air conditioning pressure sensor" connecting to C0913-57, C0913-71 and C0913-70 of the MEMS3.

if you have a wiring diagram that says something different please elaborate.
 
On the Rover 75 the two pin "evaporator sensor" goes to C0662-3 on the BCU, not directly to the MEMS3 as in a FL1, so that's an important difference that I have to fix. I think that the Rover 75 ECU must be expecting some CANbus signal from the BCU for this sensor and not a direct connection.

Also on the Rover 75 I see a four pin trinary switch going to earth, earth, C0913-56 and C0913-70 on the MEMS3. I guess I'm going to have to get one and connect it to my compressor to see what it actually does.

There is also an air temperature sensor that goes to the instrument pack, which is then linked to the BCU. I hope that this isn't a pre-requisite for the A/C to work as well.

So, for a Rover 75 ECU in a Freelander I think I need to fix the following issues:-
Lack of CANbus signals from the BCU concerning the evaporator sensor.
Possible different CANbus signals concerning the A/C dash switch (from BCU on 75, from cluster on the FL1).
Missing trinary switch, which might actually be one of the easier things to fix because it's just re-wiring. If I can figure out how it works I might be able to fake it from the existing FL1 A/C pressure switch.
 
I suppose that the last resort would be to decouple the A/C completely from the engine ECU. I could just take the signal from the dash switch, feed it via the evap sensor and the pressure sensor so that the signal only gets through if it's "good" and feed that to the A/C clutch relay making sure that the cooling fan gets switched on as well, probably with some override if the starter motor is operating and the alternator isn't producing.
 
another oddity is that the a/c pressure sensor goes to the instrument pack on a TD4, like it does on a 75, but straight to the engine ECU on 1.8K Freelander.
 
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