Any body know a brazer spalding or luton area

Hi all, the drain plug on my 109 s3 large rear fuel tank was leaking, so thought i'd replace the washer & bolt, was going fine until the bolt housing came away from the tank.
I made a small plate to go inside & out bolted thru, but instant gaskets cant cope being submerged in diesel for long, they leak.
Only thing I can think of is to get someone to brass braze the outer plate, if anyone knows someone who could do it in Spalding or Luton area, or if you can think of some other way to do the job please let me know.

If you are able to get a hand inside the tank say through the Fuel sender flange you could use a 15mm Brass tank connector with appropiate sealing rings and then block that off with a 15mm tapered blanking disc and compression nut. This will still provide a drain if required
Screwfix part no 46204 or 82376 or 6146g for tank con
64472 for blanking disc

herby1 said:

or if you can think of some other way to do the job please let me know.

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Fibre glass appropriately resin coated is pretty tolerant of fuel IME - or what about one of the proprietary tank sealants such as "Slosh" ?

The brass is a great idea, don't know why i didn't think of it before, gonna see if I can get 1 wide enough to cap the hole, the fibreglass is a good back up if all else fails.
Thanks for the ideas.

Mark Frewin said:

If you are able to get a hand inside the tank say through the Fuel sender flange you could use a 15mm Brass tank connector with appropiate sealing rings and then block that off with a 15mm tapered blanking disc and compression nut. This will still provide a drain if required
Screwfix part no 46204 or 82376 or 6146g for tank con
64472 for blanking disc

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You dont need to get a hand in,all you need is a wire poked up throught the hole then slide the tank connector and seals down it and it will drop through hole...

Then when you tighten the lock nut you will only be able to stop the connecter from turning by holding the external thread and stand the chance of destroying the thread you need to cap it off. They need to be fairly tight to seal. As a plumber for over 40 years l have fitted a few

Mark Frewin said:

Then when you tighten the lock nut you will only be able to stop the connecter from turning by holding the external thread and stand the chance of destroying the thread you need to cap it off. They need to be fairly tight to seal. As a plumber for over 40 years l have fitted a few

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There are ways to hold the tank connecter inside the tank by making a tool and once you get lock nut tightning up it will go on to seal...

JB weld is your friend. Far better than general resin.

Oh, just glued on a chaps fuel tap to his generator petrol tank with the stuff. It ain’t goin no wurz..

Yep, JB weld original's great stuff, used it for brackets & thin bodywork reinforcement, only problem is it ain't fuel resistant, started to degrade after a few years where it was exposed to diesel on my old genny fuel pipe connector.

herby1 said:

Yep, JB weld original's great stuff, used it for brackets & thin bodywork reinforcement, only problem is it ain't fuel resistant, started to degrade after a few years where it was exposed to diesel on my old genny fuel pipe connector.

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I’ll keep my eye on the bits I’ve used it on. Good to know.

Araldite can work quite well on fuel applications. I had an oil lamp for many years that I'd dug up while clearing out an old well. I Araldited a patch on the oil tank that worked very well indeed. I've also repaired heating oil systems with Araldite and as far as I know they're still working.

Tried the tank connector, cut a diesel resistant gasket to correct shape, but can't tighten connector nuts enough to stop it leaking as can't get a socket big enough through fuel sender hole, was worth a try tho.
Guess i'm gonna have to buy a new tank (£190 )

herby1 said:

Tried the tank connector, cut a diesel resistant gasket to correct shape, but can't tighten connector nuts enough to stop it leaking as can't get a socket big enough through fuel sender hole, was worth a try tho.
Guess i'm gonna have to buy a new tank (£190 )

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more bolts would help - multiply the clamping the force ..

Put a pic up - perhaps it might assist us ?

Tried a long tap wrench but not long enough, can't fit socket thru the hole, here's a few photos

From the pics it looks like you should be able to get a socket in that hole.
What size hole and socket?

J

nope, socket is 36 to fit nut inside, hole is considerably smaller, any ideas ?
a mate has some Ali brazing rods instead of gasket, gonna give them a go but never used before.

I would be grinding a bit of flat bar to fit in and grip from inside, Or do you have a step drill with hex shank.

Either may just hold it enough to get it tight enough.

If you are thinking of the Ali brazing rods why not do it with proper Brazing rods.

J

I would drill a hole through the thread near the base then put a nail/rod through and hold it with grips while you tighten nut up..hole will bo covered up by cap..

herby1 said:

Tried a long tap wrench but not long enough, can't fit socket thru the hole, here's a few photos

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Are there any flats inside the fitting? if not, then I'd get a tank connector with said flats - much like a radiator connector which has a hex bore ....

the other thing you could try would be some loctite 566 hydraulic thread sealer - IME it is very good..