300tdi Clucth issue - fork or hydraulic???

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Coo

New Member
Posts
11
Location
Rosyth, Fife
Hi folks,

1996 'P' Discovery 300tdi


Clutch pedal is on the floor, have to switch engine off to engage gear.


Had a look around, the master cylinder fluid is still topped up, cant see any leakage.
Slave cylinder also appears leak free, pipes and unions dont appear to leak either.


Is my problem sounding more like the rod through the clutch fork ?






Thanks
 
Un bolt slave cylinder and see how much rod is sticking proud of g/box-needs to be about an inch.Mine was only about 1/4 inch proud when fork punched through.Good luck
 
Right, as close to an inspection hatch as I'll get !

Also looked on this forum, it mentions it could be the plastic clip gone that holds rod to the fork...

So I'll remove slave and have a look

Cheers
 
The plastic clip doesn't do much after the clutch first use,as the tension between fork and slave keeps rod where it should be.
If you have am inch or so of rod showing proud of G/box,fork is ok.
Next I would think master cylinder letting by and not pumping pressure
 
I can lift the pedal back up....
Didn't get to it last night, but due to go tonight.

Will have abother search for Master/Slave cylinder problems etc....

I'm kind of resigned to take the box out anyway, but will see what I find.
Just that I cant see any fluid leaks so not convinced about it being master,slave issue.

Cheers all so far !
 
Ahh, jumping to internet conclusions....

Someone has mentioned that the Clutch Master Cylinder can fail internally without showing any leak....

That would explain no fluid loss....
 
Right, less talk more action !

Started the laborious task of Gearbox removal...(engine staying in)
So far:

Seats out for room inside
Centre console out, gearbox exposed
Part exhaust out
Props off front and rear
Viscous fan off (tighter than a tight thing!)

Loads more to do - dreading doing this but enjoying it too.
Will let me re-grease the transfer box stick and levers, so that's a bonus !

Plenty more to do soon
 
is the clutch pedal arm still connected to the master cylinder?
nut aint dropped off has it?

before ya go to the trouble of removing box, remove slave cylinder and get a helper to gently press clutch, see if slave operates. careful not to push piston out of slave, will get messy!
 
Update:

After taking the gearbox out, (pain in the backside - but definately DIY do-able with jacks, stands and hoist!!)

Release bearing was knackered....so bunging complete new kit in.

Going to start putting it back in tonight.


Cheers All !
 
Mines been in the garage for 3 weeks now - but I guess thats the price you pay for having a new clutch and fork for a bargain £250!!

Yes, I know I could have done it meself, but with me current health issues I can't bear much weight or heft things about, so I had to bite the bullet and pay somebody.

Happened a mate offered to do the whole thing for about 400 quid, I'd paid him £250 a few weeks back so I could budget for Christmas and he forgot to mention he was away last week. So as a compromise for me waiting so long and chucking him some cash in the meantime - its only gonna be 250 sovs!
 
£250 is not bad for the job.

It's back in, the four studs placed in the botom holes really really do help line it all up perfect.
Also jacking the engine to tip it backwards helped to give access to the top bellhousing nut, so thats back on, didn't miss any.

Just got rear prop (inc new doughnut), exhaust, crossmember, gearbox wiring and centre console to put back and that should be that !
Oh, will grease the props...

Far far easier going back in than out.

Cheers All !!!
 
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