FL2 have a barcode number on the fob that needs to be put into the ECU via dealer / 3rd party software. FL1 (Lucas 17TN) are simpler; you put the car body ECU into fob learning mode with dealer / 3rd party software and press the buttons so it learns the codes. The very bottom of this page...

It did on mine - see post 4 above - i think mine stuck open (?) and the turbo was boosting even when idle, which caused the ecu to drop the fuel to compensate and the revs just hunted at idle. Also worth reading the sticky "lack of power at 70" sticky thread as that is the same part that fails...

Hi I'm getting a clonk when taking up drive from the front end of my TD4 even though I'm running without VCU/propshaft so suspect the IRD is on its way out :( Looking around, I have found that Freelanderspecialists.com have them at 650 + post. Has anyone had an IRD from them before? Any...

See part number 1 on the diagram below. Part number STC4198.

I had this a few years back on my old TD4 facelift. Turned out to be the turbo actuator valve at the back of the engine, about £40 at the time and less than an hour to fit. Sounds like what your ECU error code is. Was about £40 3 years back and about an hour to fit...

As far as I know, you need to plug the car into the computer to get it to learn the new remote key serial number... I can see the programming option on my Rovacom Lite software, so you might find Nanocom can also do it?

turn the headlights on - are they bright? I suspect either the battery is flat or a bad earth (put a jump lead from battery negative to chassis and/or engine block is a useful test) The rear window moving happens when the battery is reconnected as part of its calibration routine...

I kind of thought it might have been the driveshaft but always thought that they made a regular click when driving a full lock circle - this one only does it from standing... Mind you, the only previous CV failures I have seen have been on 'normal' cars. I didn't realise they were so cheap as a...

do you need to advise insurance if you fit polybushes as its a modification from original?

Was there a lot of smoke / smell when it kept on running? That would suggest oil being burnt rather than diesel. Did the dash lights remain on when she turned it off, which could suggest ign switch fault or the main relay perhaps?

Thanks. Is it possible to tell if its the inner or outer joint whilst its still on the car, or does the whole shaft need to be removed first?

Hi, I have an 02 reg TD4 Freelander 66k miles that makes 2 or 3 cracking noises from the O/S front when I change direction on full lock. i.e. full left to full right and then pull away either forward or reverse. It only does it from standing, never if you are travelling even very slowly...

Yeah, I have one. They work fine for the Fuel MPG computer / reading sensors etc, but the fault code reader doesn't work as apparently the LR faults are encrypted, which the Scangauge can't handle. Mine is a MY04 TD4, but I seem to remember reading somewhere that the earlier diesels don't...

Is it gold plated :eek: Al-Ko do a genuine one for £32.71 for the AKS2004/3004, see: AL-KO KOBER Ltd Stabilisers/Accs

I sold my Disco 2 for a Freelander and haven't looked back. It gives better MPG, costs less to insure & run and does everything I need. I guess it depends what you need - if you need the internal space or offroad abilities then a Disco is better - but the Freelander is a good allrounder...

See LR tech service bulletin LTB00052: Summary: A customer may report a concern of engine hesitation, poor performance, poor engine idle or poor starting. Cause: Investigation using diagnostic equipment points to the fuel pressure sensor, which when renewed can rectify the problem. However...

Didnt think you needed to do that with the TD4, only the TD5?

Your noseweight is approx 7%, which is the figure to aim for, so no problems there. I had a slight instability and raised the rear tyre pressures from 30 to 38, but left the front at 30 and it helped quite a bit... Have you tried cleaning your towball and replacing your hitch stabiliser...

have you tried parking with the alarm on, but with the air recirc button on? would eliminate drafts through the air vents...

do a search - there are quite a few threads about non-starting when warm...