b19dcx

New Member
Hi Guys,

in desperate need of help from you Techies out there!

CAR: LandRover Free Lander 2000 "V" 1.8 Petrol S wagon

so okay this is the story...

I purchased the land rover last night at 8pm.
Drove it home, locked it up.
Unlocked, drove to work and locked up.

From here I couldn't get my fob to work (yes I am extremely unlucky when it comes to cars)

when using the key in the lock - you can unlock the drivers door ONLY.
All lights work but when trying to start the car.... nothing.
Immoby light is on.

Called out Jon at IRC to come and check the fob and unfortunately his machine will pick up NO SIGNAL.

Went to the main Stealers and picked up my EKA code to bypass immobiliser but this is NOT WORKING.

if you turn the key in the drivers side lock to the lock position - you can here the click as though the central locking is doing something.

The back window by the spare wheel was going up and down stiffly - not sure if this is up 100% if this would cause an issue?


I'm by far no mechanic but I do have a limited knowledge and will try my best to work my way around this issue with the help of Jon from IRC who I can not speak highly enough about (Great guy - came out same day and was extremely helpful) if someone could please shine some light up on this as to possible suggestions?

Thanks
 
Batteries have been changed in the remote
Jon from IRC was pressing buttons and it all of a sudden locked once out of the blue but nothing else since.
The horn sounds once drivers door opens and closes
Immobiliser light stays on solid once key is in ignition

thanks
 
Batteries have been changed in the remote
Jon from IRC was pressing buttons and it all of a sudden locked once out of the blue but nothing else since.
The horn sounds once drivers door opens and closes
Immobiliser light stays on solid once key is in ignition

thanks

If it was immobiliser the red light would fast flash. Have you tried pressing the lock button 5 times in quick succession after changing the batteries so as to re-synch the fob to the car?

You could try holding the remote fob tight to the ignition barrel when turning the ignition on too, in case the receiver ring has moved.

I would try checking the voltage on the actual vehicle battery as this is sounding like a possibility.
 
turn the headlights on - are they bright?
I suspect either the battery is flat or a bad earth (put a jump lead from battery negative to chassis and/or engine block is a useful test)

The rear window moving happens when the battery is reconnected as part of its calibration routine...
 
If it was immobiliser the red light would fast flash. Have you tried pressing the lock button 5 times in quick succession after changing the batteries so as to re-synch the fob to the car?

You could try holding the remote fob tight to the ignition barrel when turning the ignition on too, in case the receiver ring has moved.

I would try checking the voltage on the actual vehicle battery as this is sounding like a possibility.


yes to the lock button 5 times - yes to the hold it close to theignition barrel

RE: flashing light - it flashes all the time except once the key has been turned to the 3rd position (to start) where it then stays solid.

have not tried the main car battery - will have to get a battery charger in morning
 
turn the headlights on - are they bright?
I suspect either the battery is flat or a bad earth (put a jump lead from battery negative to chassis and/or engine block is a useful test)

The rear window moving happens when the battery is reconnected as part of its calibration routine...


previous owner fitted HID lights - would you be able to tell still?

with regards to the jump lead - how would this help? sorry as said im not very good with cars - surely this would wouldn't just go wrong within a matter of hours?
 
yes to the lock button 5 times - yes to the hold it close to theignition barrel

RE: flashing light - it flashes all the time except once the key has been turned to the 3rd position (to start) where it then stays solid.

have not tried the main car battery - will have to get a battery charger in morning

If you wait a few seconds with the ignition and without turning the key to the crank position there is a good chance that the red light will go out. If the fob wasn't sending a signal the red light would rapid flash.

While you are checking things over, give the fly lead (small spade connection on the starter motor) a wiggle. It should be nice and easy to get to on the front of the engine and is a common fault with them.
 
Tactile buttons in fobs can be unreliable after a few years and become intermittent.
have also heard of some getting screwed up through static damage by being in pockets / or damaged by other emf sources.....rare but I knows electrickery, and some fobs are total crap.
Ratty's point about re-synch is a good one, some fobs also need re-setting by dealers.
Personally I think they are all crap an pointless, thats no help just an opinion, but had in the past had to resolder them, re-code them, get dealers to f*** about with them, they are arse.
 
previous owner fitted HID lights - would you be able to tell still?

with regards to the jump lead - how would this help? sorry as said im not very good with cars - surely this would wouldn't just go wrong within a matter of hours?

It would create a new earth path and would help prove or disprove it being an earth fault.
 
tried to resink fob on IRC UK machine - cannot get a connection to the car to be able to do this it brings an error code.
So main stealers would get the exact same outcome but charge me through the roof to get to this.
 
It would create a new earth path and would help prove or disprove it being an earth fault.

I shall try this first thing in morning.


and once locking the car with the key .... the red light bleeps very fast then blinks normally symbolising alarm is active
 
tried to resink fob on IRC UK machine - cannot get a connection to the car to be able to do this it brings an error code.
So main stealers would get the exact same outcome but charge me through the roof to get to this.

Why do the International Rescue committee have a machine for freelanders?:confused:

Have you dropped the key? Have you fitted the correct battery (cr2032) the right way around? Check the contacts on the battery holder in the fob haven't broken away as this is quite common and can easily be fixed with a soldering iron and in many cases a paperclip or pin.

On the grounds of how slow everything is working I still think vehicle battery is at fault. Does your tv remote turn on the telly if you unplug the telly from the mains?
 
Why do the International Rescue committee have a machine for freelanders?:confused:



On the grounds of how slow everything is working I still think vehicle battery is at fault. Does your tv remote turn on the telly if you unplug the telly from the mains?


cant say ive tried mate! lol
As in a local company called IRC uk dealing with engine immobiliser codes/radio codes etc
rover specialists.
 
cant say ive tried mate! lol
As in a local company called IRC uk dealing with engine immobiliser codes/radio codes etc
rover specialists.

It seems strange that they didn't check battery voltage or earth connections as these are the primary cause of immobiliser issues.:confused:
 
no idea

will have a check in day light

so if no joy after this earth test - what are you pointing towards?
 
no idea

will have a check in day light

so if no joy after this earth test - what are you pointing towards?

I'd be checking em in this order....

1) starter fly lead connection

2) flat vehicle battery

3) Bad earth

4) confused alarm unit (disconnect battery, hold both leads together for 10 secs and then separate em and wait 10 mins before connecting again)

5) Move vehicle down the road a couple of hundred yards in case of interference from external sources (it's amazing how many things run on the 433mhz frequency.
 

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