Here are some pics of it being used recently :)

Hi, Its mine and i took it at a local P&P site.

Incidentally what grade are you switching from/to ?

Boxes are only there to make it quieter so wont affect the emissions. I run my 300tdi with just a back box and its fine. Go for it.

Its not cold enough yet to need the glow plugs to help in starting. You may well be low on compression.

Wont make much difference, you will always get hang up in the head and around 100-200ml left in the sump. As said if you are that worried but the cheapest mineral oil you can find, stick it in, start the engine and let it idle for a minute then turn it off and drain. Although unless the old...

Solid flywheels can lead to engine failure due to the torque not being soaked up by a DMF. Have seen chains fail and cranks even break on engines where a solid flywheel was used.

As said DMFs just become noisy and can cause increased NVH. Clutches can sometime slip only when they get very hot when they are on the way out. I would see if it does it again and make note of the circumstances. £1000 is about right for the job. Dont be tempted by a solid flywheel.

Cable on Defenders, electric on Discos AFAIK (mine is electric and is a 95 300) I have just replaced my transponder, the corners of the driver pin on it can round off and it stops turning properly. Bit fiddly to change but not a difficult job.

Its not 1970 anymore :D Mixing grades is fine. Using flush however is not and will cause more trouble than it solves.

I can hit standing water in mine with no issues? Unless of course we are talking 80mph then you might have trouble. I tend to not do much more than 60/65 as MTs dont like high speeds. If its wandering you might want to check your wheel bearings/swivels/steering bars etc as something might be worn.

Define 'couldnt get on with them' Also what tyres? Were they poor off road? wandered on the road?

If you are worried about MPG you have the wrong vehicle. You basically have a small out building on wheels being powered by an agricultural engine mated to an autobox. Keep the wheels and tyres and run it on a mix of veg oil. its about 60p Litre in costco at the moment so will save you a heap...

Castrol recommend this for the TD5 http://msdspds.castrol.com/bpglis/FusionPDS.nsf/Files/22C8B026CDA1EFA980257C91004A7D64/$File/BPXE-9GXQB5.pdf Which incidentally is the Factory fill for the Puma engine as well as the TDV6 and TDV8.

Sorry, didnt see the attachment you posted. Those specs are very similar, the main difference appears to be that the PD oil is actually more of a 5w40 than a 30 with that KV100 figure.

Yer thats the problem, its very technical so you have to either go into to it fully or not bother :D Its complex stuff and most of it i still dont get lol. Right have a look at this :D These are mostly top end oils as i was doing tests on oils used on Nissan 200sxs. For those who dont...

I am not a chemist and not an 'expert' but i do know more than your average Joe as collating oil data from test engines was part of my job for a few years. i have worked with experts though so have picked up the main info that helps me understand oils more :) To be fair its near impossible...

I have tested over a dozen different oils from Halfords own brand upto Ester based oils like Silkolene Pro S that all meet the same specs but their make up and additive pack contents are totally different. I have then tested these same oils again at different mileages and usages from 2k-15k...

My ones are flood so are great for laning, i have 2 on the back as well which are awesome when reversing down lanes

That is so wrong :( Fully synth is in no way just intended for extended service intervals, it offers better protection, is more sheer stable, handles heat better, cleans better etc etc etc. There are fully synths out there that are designed for extended drain but are denoted by a LL spec...