The one I've ordered for mine is 129 plus vat. The 45 quid coding fee is to basically re synch them.

It's the replaceable seals that fail on the straight 6 BMW motors. The V8 wears the spiral within the sprocket and starts rattling like an old diesel. It depends why they need replacing. If it's rattling then it needs a pair of sprockets, plus chains and guides. If you reuse the old chain on the...

The vanos units are complete sprocket assemblies on the V8. They are a fortune, trouble is of they are worn and rattling, the "u" guid is normally worn so it's a full timing rebuild which is more than a secondhand engine. You will also find you cannot change them without a pile ofspecial tools...

Mine sounds especially superb with it's tittering manifold and rattly cats, however it's worth the hassle just to pull up alongside a Prius owner with the smug satisfaction that you are single-handedly undoing the eco friendly work of him and 9 others.

Will still never sound like a V8 Though. :)

Used the good old P38 to tow a Shogun out the way which had broken down in the middle of a quite busy junction whilst making comments about japanese reliability.

Just a suggestion, brake light switch off an old Mini. If nothing else it has a long threaded bit and a pair of locknuts for either side of the bracket. In fact pound to a penny it will screw right in.

They are brand new but I'll try another set, Cheers.

I've ordered a new key for mine but after a bit of hacking and butchering and a quick dabble with a soldering iron i've got it flashing. Problem is if I hold either button down for more than ten seconds it stops working until you take the batteries out and put them back in again. Also the flash...

Quite a productive day today. New front prop UJ's which has stopped the howl under load, still whines on the over run but the diff pinion does not feel nice at all so new front diff needed. Thorough top to bottom service including gearbox filter, checked the aircon out and was suprised to see it...

According to BMW TIS, the third sensor appearing in later models is to fire up the condensor fans in the event of engine overheat instead of just relying on the air con high pressure switch. Dunno if they used it for the same reason in the rangies.

They look kind of similair to the cayenne ones.

What I actually want is the cross bars for the roof bars. I need to have an ebay clearance sale myself I thin, I've got a multipoint LPG kit for a 4.6 sat here that I'm never going to use.

I'm more curious as to the ones you are about to fit. I need to put some on mine as I've got the same problem with a short arse other half. I am thinking of claiming yours if you can post them though.. Obviously I'd pay your postage.

I think 'm going to take my roof bars off now then... :)

Cut the bolt head off then grinf the flange of the rivnut off. I take them off with a powerfile normally. The problem is what is left is destined to vanish inside the chassis forever.

No that comes about 6 months into owning a working one. :D

They've got to the point now that for what breakers are asking for the big items you might as well throw the car away and buy another, so there are loads being broken and all the bits can be had for pennies if you shop around.

If you are on about pressure testing a head for cracks then the head needs to be off and on a pressure bench. ANd preferably heated as well. You can check cooling system for leaks with a pressure tester or you can do a cylinder leakage test, or a block test(Litmus liquid) however these do not...

What is confusing me is you say you shorted out the Brown Green and blew maxi fuse 2. As far as I can see on rave for a 2000 model year, Maxi fuse 2 does not feed the brown green.