He maybe a yank...... hence all 4x4 must be jeeps.... And if so we are obliged to bow down and submit to his better superior authority and knowledge.....altough as usual it will be stolen and claimed as his own.....any way have a nice day!....but on second thoughts he can't be as McDonald eating...

He could have done a leak back test on the injectors without sending them anywhere which would have been the cheapest quick test on them.

Mmm......As far as I know the maf doesn't usually .throw up fault codes which is why it's hard to fault find when they go out of spec..........could be wrong though!

Which maf did you buy? Bosch or pierburg.......as far as I know you will have to use a maf compensator if you used a pierburg. As a test you can disconnect the maf an take it for a run to see what it goes like........don't leave it disconnected though once you've done the test, you just want to...

Are all the engine mounts ok?

Check and clean the contacts on the fuel rail pressure sensor. If you have to crank it for a long time when starting probably an injector on the way out.

Yep I did that.....ever since I get them off eBay with 5-6mm tred for £40-£60 a corner. You have to keep a regular watch though as they don't come up that often in this size........although you can also go for the cross contact uhp in this size aswell.

The pillar side is held in place by 2 bolts which are got to by removing the pillar trim which have known to come loose before.

Noooooooo! I wouldn't have thought so as this would increase the rolling circumference of the tyre......by how much I'm not sure without using a tyre size calculator. You could change all 4 but not just 2 probably

Agreed .....usually will only leak on a cold morning from the piston caps when first started and then seals itself after 30- 60secs as the pump gets warm and is then fine for the rest of the day......just open the bonnet and get someone to start it up while you look at the hp pump which is...

It only comes on when the outside temp is below approx 5 degrees.

Maybe give the previous owner a bell to find out if he had the vcu changed........it's been known before for some suppliers sending out duff units.

So they know the diff has metal in it....how? There is only a top up plug on it...so without taking the plate off which is a right bitch to reseal in situ how did they determin this?

If I remeber right it is possibly an engine mount gone us.....can't recall wich one though.

If it drives ok in 2wheel drive....this points to the ird being faulty, I very much doubt it would be a gearbox fault. Give bell engineering a ring they should be able to confirm this for you.

It's probably down to the fact that most car owners nowadays find it hard to even check the oil level let alone know what the tools in thier dads tool box are for........ We do a lot of work in schools......it's amazing some of the equipment they have paid for but nobody is allowed to use any...

Or you could give Barry a pm from above and see if he would sell you one of his spares.........assuming he still has them.

They are slightly tight in reverse. You should be able to reverse it on full lock both directions without hviving to use the go pedal........I have always tested mine once every week or so on a late night visit to my local supermarket. And there is always the one wheel up test.

Mine is quite low too even after clutch and slave change.........probably really nees a new master cylinder........but until it's broke I'm not replacing it.

So does it still clunk with the prop removed?