Bench sets in the back take 2 per side don't they? I think at the S3 age they don't need belts (i've got laps on mine, v easy to fit) + 3 up front (it's a squeeze) makes 7. Get some HD springs on the rear :D I think my Lancaster policy says you don't earn NCD, but was cheap as chips (I never...

green lanes are not "serious" off road. Any mechanically sound series will handle green lanes, and quite a lot more, with no modification. If it's a toy and not going to be used for work much, a series is probably cheaper and you have another vehicle for when you are repairing the...

Lancaster managed my 2a over the internet. Can't remember having any funny options, and you can add mods if you think the engine has been bored out/replaced with a later one. I'd try some of the others (Flux, NFU etc) first if i had extensive mods, cos i think with lancaster they would add up.

backlights are 232590 in the parts book I think it's a type MES10, 2.2W 12V, screwbase. Main beam is probably the same.

He's got the old 2.25, but i agree, you don't want to be revving the thing straight away. As soon as it catches you can be off the throttle. Read edit for a disclaimer on this! "Having your foot to the floor doesn't actually enable full fuel flow on start up anyway, because the CAV pump...

Probably best to scrap off the nasty bits. Hammerite takes AGES to dry if it's slapped on too thick and it will just tear and look nasty if you sand it. Or just leave it. Take it off road and put some fresh scratches on :D

I give my plugs about 15-20 seconds, longer in cold weather. I'll own up to having some new plugs waiting in a box tho' You should also have the gas pedal on the floor when starting (it's an ancient design, none of this fancy electronics to sort your fuelling on start up). probably no problem...

What body style? For a pick-up style, I think a dodge dakota size cover would fit. It will be a bit too wide, but probably the right length and height.

Yellow know will only pop up again when you manage to get it into low range. There is no other way to get it out of 4 wheel drive: the yellow knob has a pin on the end, which locates in a hole on a shaft. The two only line up when you have the transfer box in LOW.

N/S front: from splitter, goes behind cross-member under bell housing, then runs along top of chassis leg to bracket in wheel arch. Then flexy etc. O/S front: Splitter to bracket along top of rail. Rear: runs from splitter along top of O/S chassis rail to a flexy, Joints a T on the axle and runs...

For checking and topping, I agree with above, do it from under the truck. If you need to replace the oil, you can drain if off and then remove the seat base and tunnel, pop off the top covers on the two boxes and pour the new stuff in. Putting 2.5 L in the transfer box using a syringe is a bit...

Found the bit. PM me and I'll pop it in the post. Not sure about the noise, could be so many things!

Anybody got an old one kicking about? When I bought the truck, the PO said the ODO had only just stopped working....finally whipped it out at the weekend to fix the problem....some cnt has had all the gears away! Cheers T

If it still doesn't go in with the engine running, sometimes the bracket with the hole on the front of the high/low shaft (where the ball thing on the gear lever is) needs a bit of a rotation.

The fronts of the selection shafts could be getting bound up when you select reverse. If you took the forks off the selection shafts, then they need to be lined up and the fork bolts tightened after you have all the bits back together. I can have a look tonight for that shim if you still need it?

Assuming you've put the forks back in, and the lid on. You'll need to pop the top off again and remove the interlocking plungers (round ended cylinders that sit between the selection shafts). You should be able to engage two gears at the same time, top and first worked best for me, but it can...