If you really have to, just take off the props and VCU - leave the IRD output as is. Why remove the props anyway, just as the weather is set to become more wintry ??

Re my previous entry ( 23rd November ) - the extra warmth is not the only plus after fitting the stat. I've just re-fuelled, and calculating the mpg on the last fill-up gives me 34.03 mpg. That is a 6% improvement on pre-stat days !! I expect to see even better figures on a reasonable journey...

I had to replace three blown heater control bulbs some time ago. The bulbs are available from Halfords (other suppliers are available!!), and are 12v/2.3W - Halfords number is HBU284. Four bulbs cost me £7.96 in August 2010

Sir has, but given that he also has to carry a large bag of gear (including lunch)and that the poor old Freelander is a very healthy 54 years younger than him, he decided against it !!

So - reading all the above, as my usual journey is about a mile and a half to work early morning then same back tea-time ish, the 32 mpg or so I'm getting isn't too bad at all ! It's a 2001 TD4 manual.

I fitted 215/75-15 AT's as a straight swap for 195/80-15's - been running them for 3 years, no problems so far

Mike Satur does a modded clutch release arm for the pg1 box, it's drilled and fitted with a grease nipple - you should be able to find details on the MGRover forum. Stops the seizure problem. Might be worth looking at ??

You won't see the band until you've removed the intake manifold, I'm afraid ! But go ahead, it's still an easy and worthwhile job to do. Did mine a couple of weeks ago - and it looks as if I might be looking at an MPG improvement as well as better heater !!

I used to get 36.42 mpg from my 1995 MG'F' - thought that was pretty good. But 42 from a much heavier vehicle with the aerodynamics of a brick makes that seem poor !!

When I was doing a bit of rallying ( many years ago ) I "seam-welded" a mini bodyshell for a little extra strength - but I used braze, not weld - braze is relatively softer, and will therefore allow a little more flex

Teddywood, did you try LandRanger in Longton ??

I had this problem after replacing the wiper blade - I found that what was happening was that the washer jet fitment (for want of a better word) was stopping the blade from flexing properly when the blade was fully clipped onto the arm. The solution is to not clip the blade fully into the arm -...

Rovermgfan - what engine/box is in your freelander - is it an automatic ??

Thanks all - hard labour it is, then !!

Today I have fitted an in-line thermostat to my TD4 manual - in order to get the top hose off I had to remove the inlet manifold. As expected, it was full of gungy crap !! So, cleaning it out is going to be another job for another day (or two ). What I would like to know is, is it possible to...

I've done this fix today. A couple of points. The stat-in-housing will not fit, there is not enough length of straight hose next to the engine, and also it is designed to fit in a tapered pipe, narrower at the engine end. Of course, it may be that later TD4 manuals than mine ( September 2001 reg...

Take a drop-link off the car to check for play - I've had to do this in the past to find wear in the links

The nearest equivalent to your originals is 205/70-15, not 205/80-15. Even so, you should fit a full set of four

Another point - check wheel-nut torque on both the FL and the caravan. Loss of a wheel seems to be a fairly regular occurrence with caravans - and in most instances it seems that the owner was neither aware of the importance of making the check, nor owned a torque wrench. I always check mine...

Increase tyre pressures all round - I'm running 205/70-15 Grabber AT's, normally at 30psi, but up to 33 when towing the caravan ( Swift Challenger 500SE). Have towed down to Devon from the Staffs Moorlands with no problems (non-stop) and same coming back home