Thanks for all your suggestions, guys. It turned out the arm that holds the bonnet up had dropped a tad as the holder was bent a bit. I bent it back up and now it no longer hits the air box when it starts and stops.

Excellent. thanks very much for that mate. I hope it makes the same difference to mine.

That's very kind of you, Almonds, unfortunately that's quite a large trek for me. I'll just buy it from Amazon or something. How much did you buy as a matter of interest? It sounds like TheJoker may take you up on your kind offer though.

Cheers for the update Almonds. Great idea comparing it to the Golf as well. I'm glad it's made a decent difference, too. I guess you've made up my decision as to whether to do it to mine or not!

Thanks, and I think you are right. I just checked the air box and all mounts are correct and accounted for. If I rock the air filter it does move but I think that's just due to the type of mounts, not due to a problem. Hmmm, the search continues.

I haven't fixed it yet unfortunately. I am busy with exams at the moment. Thanks very much for those pictures though. I will have a look and see if mine have sheared off as well. It is strange that yours didn't shake though, especially as 75% of it's supports no longer existed!

Welll you just made me and my 130 feel inadequate with that beast.

This is a video of my engine starting and stopping. I don't know if it's the cause but it certainly looks like the air filter could do with being tightened. Or maybe it is normal, I have no idea. Video - TinyPic - Free Image Hosting, Photo Sharing & Video Hosting

This happened to me. It was the immobilizer. Ripped the bugger out and it's all good now.

I think it's the air filter then. You can feel a shudder from inside but it doesn't really rock the suspension. Is there an easy way to tighten the air filter up then?

Sounds about right actually. I will look in to getting a new one of them!

So looking at it I would say it's probably the air filter. Does that sond plausible? The fuel pump looks like it moves quite a bit though. I have a video but I don't know how to upload it to here.

So I don't know how normal this is, but my 300Tdi really has some large vibrations when I start it up and turn it off. When I turn it off it seems to stop very quickly if you know what I mean and it shudders so much my bonnet rattles on the wing tops. It's a '98 so I don't know if the engine...

Well it's certainly made a diference at this level. I hope it makes a difference when you're on the road!

It's not quite finished yet but this is what I did for my 130. For such a big vehicle there's surprisingly little room! I had to custom make the box to fit behind the front seats and under the rear ones. It doesn't give the best acoustics for sound reporduction but it's never going to sound good...

So, after changing everything I could think of and checking all the earths, it turns out Landowner was correct in that it was a terrible connection from the rear of the fuse box meaning it didn't quite create a full connection, explaining why the relay buzzed. Moral of the story. check the...

UPDATE: So I've tried drying the relay for a day and a half inside, that gave no joy. Next I replaced the hazard switch with a working one and that didn't work either. Next I replaced the flasher unit itself, no luck either. I take it this just leaves a bad earth then?

That does make sense Tim, fair enough. I've already got 2 earths from the battery. Best I check their connection as clearly it isn't happy at the moment! I used top quality evian as my fire extnguisher, after I got my mate to bail out and buy some!

If that underlay foam has made an audible difference it must have knocked at least 6dB off. I am highly intrigued to find out what your app says as I'm looking to do this to mine over the summer. That stuff is a great price too!

There is rarely a problem on a Defender that isn't an earth problem is there? It seems like a strange cable for the current to flow down but what you say makes sense!