bore and stroke is same for all the 2.5 motors, petrol and diesel. 2.5 na, 2.5 TD, 200Tdi, 300Tdi are all the same. ps I thought the R in R380 meant Rover as opposed to the LT which meant Leyland Transmission.

Standard plumbing 'stop end' the thread is 1/4" BSP. You should get one for about a quid. Buy two, another for the top of the radiator. Those placky plugs are dangerous! (to your engine and your wallet)

well there you go. But best removed no matter what engine it comes from.

and budgies

pm and owners manual sent by email. See page 113.

Easier to change the cambelt on the 300Tdi. And here in SA spares for the 200Tdi are hard to get as not many were sold.

You have a 'spider' thingy under the passengers seat. Count the wires going into the box. They are all black. If you have 4 thick wires and 2 thin ones, read on. If you have 5 thick wires, DONT follow these instructions. 1) cut wires and throw black box in bin. 2) ignore thin wires 3)...

Try this Land Rover VIN checker. I haven't used it myself, it doesn't work for AAD-assembled Land Rovers. There is another one in Holland I think. Land Rover VIN Checker

Oh, pressure wasH. Be careful of the front of the engine, the aircon and fan tensioner bearings don't like water on the Tdi's and the TD5. Pressure washers can push water into electrical terminals and plugs and cause all sorts of shorts. Do it at your own peril

I have a Maggiolina, very rare here in SA as this is where many of the tents come from. I got it for a good price, one of only ten ever imported.

Oh, and you will be....

It would help us to know what sort of engine you have, sounds like a TD5?

For the engine I use a CI-4 oil. The grade is important, not the make. For the main gearbox the recommendation is Texaco MTF94. If you can't get that a fully synthetic ATF DXIII is great. Or Castrol VMX 80w is good. For the rest a good EP90 or EP80w90 is fine, preferably GL5, or GL4 if you...

Front prop nearest the xfer box is the first to go on either the 90 or 110. You need to grease the thing very often to avoid failure.

Of course they (LRSA) fitted the BMW M52 2.8i six-cylinder petrol engine in Defenders for a couple of years. Uses an R380 and the low-geared 1.6:1 Lt230. Goes like a bomb and is reliable. The 90 was a bit too fast IMHO.

Seems like the latest version of snake oil. I remember something similar and useless back in the '70s. I can assure you that if the manufacturers could get instant better fuel consumption (and sell more cars) they would do so. Spend your money on something useful, like beer!

Those placky drain taps are a menace. I didn't do mine up enough the first time I drained it and spent ages bleeding the whole system. The engine would run and then stop if the accelerator was pushed. Since then I have sheared it off, and it's staying like that!

Take out the glow plugs and whizz it over on the starter.

Could be Fuel cooler o-rings stuffed. If it is leaking, don't buy one from a LR stealer, take it apart and go to a decent place and buy a couple of o-rings. Costs about a thousandth of their price.

Bearing, roller, viscous fan to cover. ERR5285 .