autodata say fully synthetic, i run mine on fully and change it every 3000 miles. oils cheaper than an engine.

did you set the timing using a dial gauge? and make sure the final movement was towards the engine to take the whip lash out the pump?

you can tow it no probs, put fuse 11 in to put the transfer box in neutral and then select neutral on the shift. i think max towing speed is 30mph.

injector spill off pipes are the usual suspect, they might not look damp but they can get porous and let the diesel run back.

i cant see why it should of had new injectors, if one fails (which is rare unless its number 4) you only replace the faulty one. probably confused with the glow plugs which are replaced by the set, a new set of injectors would cost a tidy sum of money.

yer they just unclip, gentle does it though.

under the inlet manifold, awkward but doable.

theres more than one flap, i took the centre vents out and sprayed some down there too. mine was already well stripped because i was doing the blend motors again or so i thought, it took fooking ages with the silicone spray. spray and move the lever full cycle and then repeat for some time...

heres one for ya, i changed my blend motors 3 or 4 months ago and all was well for a while then a few weeks back the damn book came on again. i plugged it back in to the rovacom to find it said the distribution blend motor had stalled during self test, when i forced it from cold it only went so...

its a 97, and yes thats the beast in the avatar. she sits lovely on 22"s despite what some may think on ere:p and handles very nicley.

most of the time you only need the flange seal and not the flange as well but if you want to be sure order both, its not a hard job. unbolt the rear prop, take the drum off and undo the flange nut, remove flange and take the seal out then just clean every thing up and put it all back together.;)

every thing on the list i put up there but my exhaust is straight through front to rear and i got a kevlar clutch made up for it as well because the standard one (6 month old borg beck) slipped as soon as the turbo spooled up. power wise its fooking brilliant, its revs right through to the rev...

if the crank sensor stop working correctly its gives the same symptons, cuts fuel and glow plugs. worth getting the multi meter out for the time it takes to check.

sorry for the delay boys, i been busy burning some oil. ;) providing i dont drive like i stole it mine returns a nice healthy 35 mpg on a run and around 28 round town, cant complain considering i can out drag my old mates 4.6 rr waving on the way past. it does help me though coz he gas to stop...

you can do the basics yourself for free, decat and remove centrebox, nice cold air induction then up your boost to 20 psi(prefrably by means of a boost controller). them mods do make a noticable difference, thats where i started, then if you want to go further ring up diesel bob and ask for some...

not worth buying a heli coil kit just to do one job, send it in to any engineering shop and let them do it. its only a cheap job.

it still could be the oil cooler, it runs right across the front and with age the ally corrodes and well the short term is ****es oil all over the place. defo check the intercooler hoses and the breather from the rocker cover first though.

spraying anything up the inlet doesnt go through the injectors so you must of been lucky, the knock you heard is diesel knock not the injectors. if it worked for you though then thats a bonus, a common problem with diesels is the steel insert around the injector coming loose and rattling. your...

same here, rovacom system with the full package even the becm eprom chip interface. mablethorpe, lincolnshire.

there filling you with a load of old ****e, theres only one pump removal tool for the bmw m51 engine. no pulleys where changed through out the use of the engine by, bmw, vx or landrover.