theres a lot to be said for regular oil changes, when i owned a p38 i used to change the engine oil and filter every 3k and all the rest of the oils once a year, never had a problem with the old girl. im hoping if i do the same with the td6 it will run as reliable as the 38 was, heres hoping.

couldnt coment on that coz ive never driven two identical boxes to destruction running the different oils, i can say it makes the gearbox a lot smoother though which to be fair the 380 needs all the help it can get on that level. obviously landrover saw it helping the box aswel.

landrover changed the spec of oil from dexron to a fully synthetic mtf94 for the r380 manual box, makes for a nice smooth change. ive saved you putting on wait by telling you that a,:D.

dealer only mate, there about 26 quid for the pair same as ebay. no one else makes the particlular fitting for the 322 so your stuck.

hello mate, email sent.

i think i need to change how much i charge to do them looking at the cost above, i change plenty of them and only charge 90 quid. the last one took me 2 hours, all you need is a long screw driver, no need to drill or brake any plastic panels.

there no way skiming the head can cause the engine to lock up, if i where you i would double check your timing or get you mate to check it. thats the only thing that can be causing a problem. the pin will go in several different holes in the flywheel so i would start there and make sure you get...

the vents have clips on them already so after you cut a nice template slap it on the wing and scribe round it then get brave and cut it out.

no programming needed, are you sure the sensor was faulty. did you swap it with one of the other rear ones and listen again, the wiring harness has a tendancy to corrode. unplug it from inside the car and do a continuity test on it.

oil in the system is normal, the breather from the cam cover goes into the air inlet just before the turbo. your supposed to clean the intercooler anually to keep this to a minimum though.

the only difference is the manual p38 has the gearbox oil cooler built in the bottom of the radiator where as the auto has a seperate oil cooler, most firms sell the manual radiator for both and if you fit it to an auto model obviously you would have two fittings not used on the radiator.

if you look at the inlet manifold the egr goes between the intercooler pipe and the manifold, with a small vacume pipe on one side, looks like a big mushroom.

you can pretty much count out the new stainless sections then unless it was very badly built, cats worth a check though. if it blocked or collapsed just cut it out a replace with a straight through section. interccoler pipes delaminate aswel so another thing to check.

the silencers rot away inside allowing the fibre to block the pipe giving you your lack of power and eventually stopping the engine or blowing the silencer apart, the cats have been known to block aswel. undo the centre silencer and run the engine, dive under while its running and listen to the...

its a 97 dse so too early for an airflow meter, has a boost gauge been hooked up to the map sensor to see what the turbo is doing and a diagnostic run just to check the live data. if it has and all comes back good try disconnecting the exhaust, i have known a few collapse and block.

it will do over 30mpg on a run if its properly serviced and not driven like its stolen, mine used to drop to around 26 round town. the td6 i run now just returned 33mpg on the way back from cornwall at 75 on cruise, the on board said it was doing nearly 35 so it wernt to far out.

nay, it wont effect the control by the ecu if there was a boost leak. the contoller only goes inbetween the actuator and the the boost source, it still has its map sensor where it should be and doesnt effect its operation.;)

if the abs kicks in under general braking it normally suggests a cracked reluctor ring, best to get it plugged in though so you know which one to check with out looking at all of them only to find out its the last one you check.:doh:

rather than keep messing about in a tight space just buy a manual ball and spring boost controller, that way you will have full control, easy adjustment and it will get rid of waste gate creep aswel.

boost is supposed to be checked on a annual service although never gets done, your actuator has probably gone a bit week and needs adjusting. pretty fiddly on the p38 as you need to go under it and work up through the mount, can be done with patience though. crack on.