It's a 1971 so I think just a visual check? That's what he did anyway.
So the smoke screw sets low speed fuel delivery and the full load screw (on the back of the pump) sets high speed?
I had the same thing, seemed like I had a flat battery when I tried to start. Did you check the earth from starter to engine(or maybe chassis)?
When this happened to me I ran a thick jump cable direct from the starter earth to the battery negative. If it starts with that then you know you have...
Yeah it doesn't actually seem THAT bad to me but I suppose it's all subjective. There is quite a thick cloud at the top end. The garage is literally 50m along the road from my house so I'd have no excuse if I got caught ragging it round the back roads. Hopefully the redex will work its magic. I...
Can someone tell me what the difference is between these two?
Landy failed on emissions (among many other things). I've stuck some redex in the tank and given it a good run in low gears (on private land of course) so hopefully that will clean it up a bit. I have been reading for a while...
Sounds like pump. I had a water leak I couldn't find for ages because it was a split pipe that only opened up when it got hot so whenever I put new water in I couldn't see it.
I almost got one of these:
Vehicle acoustic engine blankets - NK Group
They get good reviews and they make them for the gearboxes too I think. The only thing that stopped me is that I have a 200di in a series and it is so close to the bulkhead that I don't think there would be any room to get...
I put flashing then closed cell foam on my doors and roof in my series. Definitely took away the low droning noise that used to be there. Still damn loud though!
Oh that is a thought actually. There are two kinds of gauges. One of them creeps up towards its final value when you turn on the ignition, the other will instantly spring there.
The creeping one I guess doesn't need the regulator because any blips in voltage would take a while to move it...
Did you look for a short? You could try running a wire straight from the gauge to the tank and see if the gauge works then. The existing wire could be awkward to check in-situ as it's in some hidden bits.
Make sure to look at the completed listings on ebay, not the ones that haven't finished yet. That way you can see that the ones up for 15k never actually get sold! Some have been on there for at least a year now.
As said above get some pics up.
Breather pipes coming off the axles/gearbox. Wading plugs. Rubber glove over the distributor. Moving various electric things into the cab.
I'm not an expert on it but these are some things I might do if I went in puddles more. It all depends how deep you're going. How deep have you gone so far?
I used to use the halfords classic stuff for my 2.25, I liked how it came in a can of it instead of the plastic. As said warm the oil up to get it to flow more easily.
I had a bastard of a time trying to get the oil filter housing back on, could never get the O ring seal to work. In the end I...
Standard series wiring has very little fuse protection so it's best to put your own in. For powerful things like headlights then it's best to use relays to take the load off the switch, they're not that complicated once you look at a diagram.
So the gauge is reading over full even when the tank connection is unplugged? Must a short somewhere.
Edit: I mean I would think that the wire running from the gauge to the tank is shorting. Maybe the wire has split or broken completely.
My overdrive is fine in normal but if you try to engage it it does not like it one bit. I'm not even sure if it is possible to engage it now.
It used to be fine to engage but you had to double declutch to disengage. When is was engaged it was VERY loud.
I am not looking forward to seeing...