I'll get it Nitrogen filled and squirt soapy water about and see for definite where it is away but I think in any event it's going to be an ebay job. It is quite an easy fit isn't it?

My A/C condenser has gone after just over a year. :mad: Symptoms were the compressor clutch not engaging and a screwdriver test (fingers out the way) in the low pressure valve confirmed not a bit of pressure. Out with the UV light in the dark and bright green all along the lower half of the...

Re-bled again tonight and seems ok. Will keep an eye on things.

Just fitted a new rear caliper to 1997 P38. Bled fine and working. However after a week it's dragging again just like the old one. Flexi hose breaking up internally causing fluid not to flow back or is there some hidden one way valve somewhere? (wouldn't think there is one but the P38 usually...

It will tow that but don't expect miracles. Make sure the prop joints are fine and the auto fluid is in good condition (if auto box).

Make sure it's stripped and rebuilt properly. The handbrake lower pivot needs to be completely free moving and the front calipers lower guide pins have a horrible rubber sleeve which swells and jams inside the slide.

I think the casing is the same colour all the way through as opposed to a clip on cover. Looks like either you get the right colour or a decent aerosol.

Hopefully your MOT tester didn't try it on the rolling road brake machine otherwise he will have damaged it himself in which case he will certainly know it's gone.

Looks like a socket and a long bar on that nut on the left and ------------ HEAVE!

Just a thought, how about if you had a friend help and you both sat in the car each with a key and pressed the buttons at the same time in the same sequence? Could have a prob trying to get them both in the ignition at the same time though so that would have to be one after the other!

I'll probably refurb the old one in any case. Two P38s here.

Done, gently clamped the hose, removed banjo bolt then caliper, refitted it all (new washers), opened the bleeder, ignition on, pump through clear, tightened bleed. All in 10 minutes. Imagine if that was at the main dealer!

The right side is still fine with good smooth movement so I'll keep an eye on it just in case of an imbalance. The left one is dragging and heating up a bit so that's the one for the off. New discs and pads on a couple of weeks ago too so don't want to ruin them.

Am about to replace a rear brake caliper on a P38. Do I have to go through the whole bleeding procedure or as it's just the one would I get away with just doing the one corner?

Is that the tensioner? What model is it? In any case it's the allen bolt you need to undo. Looks about 10 or 12 mm from here and judging by the teeth marks on it someone has had a molegrip on it before. Once it's off you'll probably find a nut on the back of the bolt you tried to slacken when...

Just run it on live datastream. Rear o/s sensor - the only one which hasn't been done - yet! The fault code is actually Cldc0. Oh, well here we go again.................

Have just replaced front n/s drive shaft complete with reluctor ring and abs sensor and the usual 3 are still on. The red handbrake light which had been on permanently is now off though so something's back to normal. Went for a test run and the 3 are staying on. Selecting HDC doesn't show up the...

Anti roll bar link ball joint tight, maybe.

On the slightly older P38s its under the windscreen scuttle I believe. (pre 99?)

Needing to check/ replace the ambient temp sensor behind the front bumper as Hevac display says its 14 degrees when it clearly isn't! (Roll on Summer). Had the grille off today but dont have 9 inch fingers to reach the thing. I take it it will be a loosen bumper and pull forward routine. Just...