Maybe it was unplugged to show a fault that didn't exist so you could pay for a 'new' one (or at least replug the existing one!) fronts are the same left or right and the backs are the same left and right although front and rear are different. It's really just the length of the wire. Yours will...

As said previously make sure it's a proper recognised make of screen. I had this prob a few years ago with My Sierra Cosworth (remember the days!) when it took three goes to get a decent one in. The cheap efforts looked ok, but either had some wierd brand name or when you looked through it once...

Worth connecting it back up again just to see if the old screen was faulty. If not it's back to the hunt!

Wouldn't just have come loose on the spindle and the arm just stuck vertically with the motor still spinning would it?

Driveshaft - less than an hour if a front one, a bit more for the back. In any case two sensors and a new shaft plus labour and an MOT - £350 all in.

Neither you did but just in case anyone misunderstands and lobs an undamaged key in one and puts it on the undamaged locknut then they are in for a surprise. I too use generic removers if the original key is lost or the nut is damaged, e.g. a neighbour of mine spent two hours with a hammer and...

Never use an impact wrench on undamaged lock nuts. They will turn to mush or break, better to use non impact means of removal, i.e. a long bar!

Yep, faulty switch or even pushed down. Does it flash when you are in anything other than first or reverse?

If you are a dab hand with a drill, small screwdriver, hammer and narrow nose pliers you can do it yourself in a couple of hours. I'm now on the fourth one in two years. Have been going around the car each wheel in turn as one fails. Latest escapade was both nearside ones. You can get them off...

Glad to have helped. I have Pirelli Scorpions too!

The pump pick up could be clogged too. I had this on my BMW recently. Years of old washer fluid had turned to jelly and clugk to the gauze filter.

I have one of these power saver plug in things. You may be expecting too much from a 9V battery with all the things a P38 has electrically. I usually use a low output charger on the battery leads rather than jump leads for this purpose. Reason being I had a jump lead jump off one day, lost the...

The joints may be fine but often overlooked is the steering damper. Quite easy to see at the front running across from the track rod to a fixed point. Disconnect it at one end and push it in and out. Should be quite resistant. (It could even be missing). Next on the list is the steering box...

Thanks, was just a thought. I'm just thinking of these wire gauze caps on the old Minis - different system obviously.

HALF way (which is not in your original post) isn't 'towards full lock' which implies just about full lock which is what my suggestion was based on. Any answer or suggestion provided by members is based on the information provided. In view of the new info what I would now suggest is maybe a weak...

A good rule of thumb for most/ all OHC engines is if it has a metal casing on the side then it's a chain and if it's a plastic cover then it will be a belt. In any event your question was answered above.

Pressure relief valve. Normal PAS feature. The more you keep the steering held on full lock part of the system is trying to keep turning but it can't so the valve kicks in, relieves the pressure and gives a pulsing, fluid noise and often a slight kick back through the steering wheel. Check the...

Just done a search and found this thread. Is the oil filler cap a breather as well? Would it be an idea to drill a 1 or 2mm hole in it to assist breathing in case the valve clogs up or would that just allow needle jet of oil to spray up?

It was done only a year past November so the bolts should be reasonable so here's hoping. Must check whether it was one or two years for the warranty in which case it could cost me a lot less although it will most likely have been one year.

It's a 2000, P38 4.0