Have you driven a p38 diesel? Trust me, you won't want one if you have, gas the petrol if I was you;)

A post for anyone who has found this post as they have overheating problems with their p38 2.5 diesel..........been running the Omega engine now for 2 months without any problems so far (touch wood) so, I would say it's a good swap and a cheaper option than re-building your engine if you are...

Eh?:confused: He wasn't the original poster

Are you sure it sounds like a big end? it would be a fairly nasty metalic knock, you would almost feel it through the floor of the car, oil pressure would also suffer I would think you would see the oil light flicker once the engine was hot (after a good long stonking) it certinaly wouldn't get...

They're not spacers as such, they're centering rings, as the 18's have a bigger centre hole and tend to slop about on the hubs.

I've just done the drivers side one in mine, to be honest, not to bad to do, half a day per side I'd say, and I would agree with Wills the hog rings are a pain, though with someone else to help and 2 pairs of long nose pliers it isn't all doom and gloom. rangerovers.net have excellent guides...

I don't have the Bosch altenator, mine's fitted with a Valeo (BMW OEM) unit, I've seen the Bosch ones on fleabay for £85 but never seen the Valeo's cheap anywhere :(

So they ajusted the tracking on the rear as well as the front did they? if not, demand half you money back:mad:

Start with the obvious, have the wheels checked and ballanced first off, does the shake happen under braking? if so it could be warped discs, have a look at the UJ's see if there are any red rusty marks around the 4 cups, if there is they could well be the cause of you shudder.

£111 for an alternator for a DSE! mine cost £250 just a month ago, are you sure you have the right one? you need one that pumps out at least 100 amps, preferably more!

Doesn't sound nice! Try the obvious first, check the gearbox oil level, remember to do it with the engine running though.

Sounds like a circulation problem (as the heater went cold and it was boiling) though it could be loads of things, the obvious is look for external leaks, all hoses etc, if possible do or get done a sniff test, this will eliminate any head gasket problems, but it could be a waterpump problem (as...

Just a thought, but check the engine is well earthed to the chassis, could be slow cranking due to a crappy earth. I've generally found that after re-builds you will need to have a good battery and a pair of good quallity jump leads connected to a running car as it will take a while to lift...

I'd have a look at the thermostat for the cause of your running cool problem, looks like it could be stuck open, does it take quite a while for the heater to blow out nice warm air? The EML light when you take your foot off the gas is caused by a fault within the injection pump, I've had this...

It's easy to change, though you do need the special tool, it not only holds the sprockets in place but also forces the sprockets of the shaft. Take the cam cover off and set it up as it says in Rave, look down from the top to the FIP sprocket, if you have the engine on the right stroke you...

Don't know really!. A centre diff and diff lock locks the front and rear propshafts together, no slipage, a VC allows movement between the front and rear props, thats the only differance.

This sounds like a Traction Control device, the VC was installed as a cost saving over a centre diff (which was lockable, the VC isn't) even if the VC did transmit equal power between front and rear (which it doesn't) the 'light' wheel will still spin due to the diff in the front or rear axle...

Anyone know what style this alloy is called? even better have one of them for sale (I need a spare as the one I have doesn't match these). It's 18" (my spare is a 16").

I bought 4 replacement discs for my RRC 200tdi, but without pads, bought them locally (only cheapies) the discs were (and still are) excellent, perfect fit, as the originals (except for cost!!) I got mine from fleaBay from island 4x4 IIRC, would recommend anytime.

Just my opinion, but I would say either a problem with the gearbox or torque converter. I'd get a diagnosis from a LR specialist, someone with Testbook or similar.