I taxed my series online as soon as I returned from MOT, no problem.

If you have bought this you have the right thing......

You shouldn't slacken until wheels are totally free, just back off the snails slightly, the wheel will turn but you will feel the shoes rubbing....

I have the same one, a very useful tool, I can set up to 8mm rivnuts without extending the handles. I have used a number of the rivnuts around clyde, for number plates etc.....

:) I will look for movement but this tickover thing has progressed a bit....... My plan has been the incremental improvements to performance and driveability, when I first got Clyde running he didn't have an air filter, once I had fitted a standard series filter ass'y he started to smoke a...

I had troubles with my battery so went the cheap "snake oil" route before shelling out big money. BAT AID BATTERY PILLS REVITALISES PROLONGS LIFE OLD | eBay Trouble is I also remade all my screw tight terminals at the same time... battery is now reliable but not sure what made the difference.

Remade the connection between the butterfly valve/vacuum adaptor and inlet manifold which had been leaking. Problem solved with a new o'ring backed by a 1mm paper gasket... no more sounds of sucky sucky! :)

I had considered that possibility but reasoned that it would only happen whilst the lever is being pulled, and return to normal tickover once it is fully applied and let go of..... *EDIT* Actually, I have just pondered over the mechanics of this and as the lever is pivoted on the chassis my...

The first time it happened I thought I was imagining things... The vehicle is a Ser 2 & a half swb deisel. Tickover seems quite normal until I pull on the hand brake, then the revs decrease to rattle and shake speed..... release the hand brake tickover returns to normal.:confused: Any...

You may be able to get the sender wire off and onto the terminal by taking the centre seat box cover out and reaching through...Can't remember if there is space off hand.... Do you have a volt meter? check that the reg gives out 10v then you can be pretty sure you will need to grind the welds...

MY list would be endless so edited highlights No gromets where lighting wires passed through to wings one wire in headlamp had 2 pieces of terminal block and one twisted and taped join. Brake back plates on the wrong side of vehicle (therefore adjusters on trailing shoes). No thermostat...

For the fuel gauge earth the wire at the sender end (under drivers seat) The gauge should go to full, if it does you may need a new sender (I did). Try the same thing with the temp sender wire at the sensor end, with wire earthed gauge should read hot.

If you are not doing a "rivet counter" rebuild you could go the same route as me, as dash bulbs fail I am rewiring the bulb bases with an LED and resistor, they should outlast my ownership of the vehicle.

Welcome to the forum, photo's almost always help with identifying bits and pieces. The endearing thing about Land rovers is that they collect the fixes done by previous owners, you need to be a bit of a detective to see what is what, for instance on my LR the diesel ignition switch was...

I said some time ago They did, for anyone else who needs to know o'ring part number 587853 Cost around £0.32 each from LRseries

I started this drawing some time back from dimensions gleaned from various sources, it is incomplete but maybe some help. As far as I know the number of holes is correct, the radius dimensions are correct as well but as you can see there is a lot you will need to play with.

Turned a blown filament bulb into an LED bulb to get my fuel warning light working...ordered an new fuel gauge sender as old one is knacked....

I have new parallel plugs so the light does not dim, I give it 10 seconds then release the key (plugs off) then press the start button. I do not keep heaters going and it starts fine, I tried once with heaters on and it showed that my battery was not in tip top condition as the extra power...

Sounds about right:) I too have a start button, the po replaced the ignition switch with a 3 position petrol one I wired it so that the sprung contact is the heaters rather than starter solenoid and added a starter button myself. Is yours the same?

Are you sure it was not done to fit parallel heater plugs? The most common way to rewire for the new type heaters is to use one terminal of the balast resistor as it is convenient point to common the wires... If they are the old series heaters there is a fair chance thay are u/s.