Towsure have a range of them in different heights, or try your local tow bar fitting centre

Lynall is basically saying the same as me, but in a slightly different way. Slacken the locknuts then let the pushrod find its own position - the springs inside will push it out. Tighten the locknuts to keep it in this position. There will then be a way for fluid to travel from reservoir into...

Sorry to be pedantic, but have you slackened off the locknuts on the pushrod and let the piston in the slave cylinder come out to its full extent through the pedal. Tighten the locknuts after this to ensure you are using the full travel of the piston.

To check the master cylinder pushrods setting slacken the locknuts off on the pushrod. The internal spring in the master cylinder will then extend it. Leaving the locknuts loose check the pedal height, , it should be 140mm. If necessary set this with the adjuster screw. Then tighten locknuts...

The new crossmember will be slit on the four corners of it box section. The old box section should go into the new as far as the end of the slits. You can then clamp the new one up and weld along the slits as well as at its end. Hope this is clear

When I did mine a few years ago the new crossmember was slightly flared to fit over the old chassis box section. Overlap was about 3in or so.

Change the linings, for 15 quid or so it's not worth risking it. You will not anyway remove the oil

I Spread chassis to get gearbox x member in with a 1.5 tonne Halfords bottle jack exactly as you want to do. It does not need much push to spread chassis members enough. Pack out with timber so you do not use much of stroke of Jack, they will work on side but are not made to do so

Regarding tow ball height, that's why I wrote check recommended height and adjust hitch to suit. Regarding axle loads I simply meant that with towball at correct height trailer will be horizontal, so all will be doing their share.

While you are checking things take look at the recommended tow ball height for the trailer. And if you have adjustable hitch alter it to suit. You don't want trailer travelling nose up (or down). You also want load spread evenly if possible on trailer axles.

Connectors are on bottom corners of windscreen, one each side

On 300tdi defender orange with black stripe goes to alarm unit when fitted. At a guess if your does not have factory alarm then this is where it would be. Perhaps some electrical guru would confirm this for you

Assuming you mean the output shaft and seal. The seal is straightforward, with the transfer box removed you can see the seal. Simply take it out with a screwdriver or similar and fit new. If the collar on the shaft is badly grooved it can be pulled out with a long legged bearing puller and...

Black wires are always earth

You've got problem with a short to earth somewhere. Power is always on to interior light. When door switch is operated ie door opened feed from light unit to door switch is earthed by the switch. Start by disconnecting all wires from light unit to switches then connect one at a time to find...

What colour is it? Check on the colour then the wiring diagram will tell you where it goes. Otherwise google 'vehicle wiring colours' and you will find standard colour codes.

May be that the problem is not displaying a valid tax disc, I got fined (many years ago) because my tax disc had fallen off the windscreen!!!!

T55, for transfer box 1/2 inch drive from socket set and 19mm ish ring spanner, can't remember exactly. You will also need a syringe type oil pump or similar to stop you from getting a sleeve full of oil.

Sorry James, bow to your greater knowledge. Mine is based on defenders, reservoir will still be in back corner of engine bay for not too technical types.

Look under bonnet in back corner in front of driver. There will be two reservoirs, the one nearest the centre of the car is the clutch reservoir. The other one with a big black circular "can" in front of it is the brake reservoir. Fill the clutch reservoir to level with dot4 brake fluid.