Fitted airtex water pump (OEM) today - tested it by removing inl;et to heater matrix and it spat out water confirming pump id good. Filled up and removed air - took on test drive got approx 5 miles and over heated - felt bottom of radiator ...... bloody cold - thermostat cannot be opening -...

wow ! the list of places to avoid is getting longer and longer.... can i add my local - my remote wont lock car when i go in for a tipple .... damned if im walking though !

did you manage to fix your overheating prob ? if so what was the reason?

Results of this mornings tests Filled radiator from top hose, filled system and bled completely of air. started and allowed her to warm up internal heater chucking out hot air (very hot) with fan on full (air con off) allowed to trick over for 55 mins - all ok revved to 2500 rpm and...

i will have the pump off and see if i can see anything obvious and dont think i can run it without a thermostat as its contained in a sealed unit

is there a way to test the water pump in operation ?

all are hot apart from the bottom one that connects to radiator - previously suspected faulty thermostat, got new one and tested it in saucepan on stove before fitting - thermostat opened before water boiled - assumed all ok.

would have to be massive air lock - followed rave when filled fitted new pump with metal impeller when gasket replaced bottom hose off water floods out erring on liner prob

engine is 12 yrs - 90k miles radiator is 3 weeks - 50 miles max

heads skimmed when gasket replaced radiator at top is almost too hot to touch, at bottom almost cold - cold on lower part of thermostat no loss of coolant but when she overheats expansion vessel is under a lot of pressure. No smell of exhaust gasses in expansion vessel. hot air coming...

is a slipped liner obvious to see if head is removed ?

New rad fitted 2 weeks ago - is the baffle vertical or horizontal ? and how do i test ?

Hi, Yr 2000 4.0ltr petrol - suffering from overheating probs Had new head gasket new o rings on matrix new water pump new radiator new hoses 2 x new thermostats new expansion vessel cap checked,double checked,triple checked quadruple checks for air locks - all removed new viscious...

HI, My P38, 4.0 ltr 2000yr petrol has had its unfair amount of overheating problems - initially caused by me leaving an airlock in the system after i replaced the heater matrix o rings - since then i have fitted: Head gasket new radiator new water pump new hoses viscious fan and a new...

i think you're all right, flushing could has dislodged the muck/baffles, flushing probably managed to only flush half, it is an old radiator - the top get very hot hot and cannot keep hand on it - the bottom is much much cooler.

Hi chrisall69, sorry to hear about your overheating problem, i know what its like. I have a P38, 4.0l Yr2000 petrol and not wishing to takeover your thread i thought i would post a reply with my own situation that someone may wish to recommend a next step as it may also help you. I...

pm me with your email address - i have something i can send you that may help - i've just done mine.

Ref testing condenser fans: previously removed both condenser fans and measured resistance - got dead short, tried to connect them individually to the battery and neither turned. Did some digging and found a thread that suggested grounding pin 3 of the connector on dual pressure...

Hi Datatek, I agree, the viscous clutch is shot and i will replace it. The vehicle is It is a P38 - YR 2000 with a petrol 4.0L Thor engine, this has not changed since my first post. Ref the condenser fans - when i removed them to fit the new condenser i wired them directly to the battery (...

quoted me £49.99 for a regas but because it took them longer than normal because their machine ran out of gas and they had to change the bottle so they only charged me £42. Anyway - all air con working fab - have been away for a week and everything running sweet - 265 fault free miles down the...