put it like this, if its the slave you are looking at a major job, as the gearbox would have to come out and its a pain of a job to do or lots of dosh at a garage,£1000 at a guess, the master fails usually gradually getting worse as the seals weaken, and is unable to apply enough pressure to the...

im with you on that Ryan, i spoil mine too, but there is always something failing or causing a problem, life would be boring if it was too easy, another though is the turbo waste gate actuator arm, make sure its free to move, if this sticks , you will get poor acceleration and lack of power

welcome to the site trevor, and to the new hobby of running a landrover freelander,its a great motor, you thought you was just going to drive it dint you lol, you will need a sense of humour, a big wallet or a good tool kit . first off check all the turbo hoses they can split and cause...

yep sounds like your clutch master cylinder has failed, just done mine last week £75 ebay oem part, takes about an hour to replace, easy job, quick release connection between the master and slave pipework

i had the same issue last year, used 7mm spacers on the rear as the new wheels were catching on the drum, dont drive the motor with them 16 inch wheels on unless you have fitted some spacers , its a deff safety issue, get spacers from ebay £14 a pair i think

dont worry about fitting the acoustic cover as it dont make much difference, the crack around the support turret, i would give it a good clean and rough up with sandpaper and seal using a two part epoxy glue this should seal it well enough to stop oil escaping, leave the cover off

when was the last time you changed the fuel filter?, the inline fuel pump can stick, so you can have intermittent faults for a long time before you bottom the problem, i have had my freelander over 8 year, so getting to know it quite well now fuel rail sensor wiring is worth checking

your symptoms are fuel pump 90%sure,,, the intank pump is easy to test, but the inline is possible easiest to replace it can work some of the time ,and can also stick thats why you have lack of power, if it sticks at initial start up your engine wont start , both pumps need to run at start...

well its not ok now :( hence why im suggesting you have a pump issue, dont discount it cause yours are only 2 years old,,

had a similar situation,driving along and then all of a sudden lack of power, took ages to get up to 50, would park up and next time it would run fine , it turned out to be the inline fuel pump,(2001 td4 120k miles so i guess it was due to be replaced) £110 for replacement, runs great now do...

just look at the door seal and you will see what im on about, dont have time to sort pics out at the moment, where the ends of the seal meet make sure there is a slight gap and the water will drain outside

matt, regarding the water in the boot, if you take a look at the door seal and where it joins at the bottom, cut a few mill off so there is a slight gap , as the water tends to run down the seal and into the boot rather than outside , if you make a slight gap it will drain outside it worked on...

i dont know the arrangement for the petrol 1.8 but possibly its the clutch master cylinder, they are suspect on higher mileage motors, if you can select gears ok with the engine not running, but have difficulty selecting 1st or reverse when engine is running, i would certainly suspect the...

possible fuel pump issue, try giving it a tap you should be able to hear it running

only been a requirement for the last 30 years plus :D

i have had the cracked chassis noise for a few months and as the noise was getting worse i thought it was about time i tackled the issue, its a very common problem on the freelander, usually on the off side, its where the rear subframe - front bolt is attached to the chassis, what happens...

i would leave the snapped plug in place , it should be fine with 3 good glowpuugs, time /effort / cost and risk perfection is great but costs , would always use a hexagonal socket when trying to remove glowpuugs , never use 12 point multi sockets unless you want to round off the nut , i had...

a good looking freelander, if you fit a synergy unit you will have a very driveable motor , well worth the money, lots on here will tell you the same

why are you taking them off in the first place ? a deff no to welding them

not sure what year your motor is , but when i replaced my wheels with what i thought were identical wheels, i found they were catching on the rear drums,(slightly different inner casting) , had to get some 7 mm spacers from ebay £15