removing the injectors for the first time can be tricky , when i replaced mine i had to sacrifice an injector to enable me to pull out the rest of them, there is a write up on here somewhere, basically, you remove the injector top nut and drill it out, and then fit a length of threaded bar...

the important detail for a battery on a diesel is the cold cranking power ccp, from memory mine is about 680 amp, remember, its needs as much current as possible on a cold frosty morning, glow plugs plus starter motor current, takes a lot out of the battery, and if it dosent throw the engine...

when was the last service, and fuel filter change ?

maybe think about getting a boat:D

what part did you put in ? do you mean the master or slave, you most probly need to bleed it now

chris , how did you repair it ?

you also have a pump in the fuel tank, if you listen at switch on you can hear it wiirrring,these types of faults are very tricky to diagnose at the best of times ,even harder when not actually there to see it

kizzeh, thats exactly how i was thinking the only reason i didnt get round to changing the bearings was i didn't have the time and couldnt pinpoint which one s to replace, , what a nice surprise when i fitted the new tyres, and i will be swapping the rears over every year so they wear evenly...

matt, the little stubb on the side, blanks off the pipe from the exhaust

dont want to tell you how to suck eggs just trying to help:eek:, when adjusters are backed off the drums come off easy, they get stuck on the unworn section of the drum, so maybe back them off fully next time :D

did you get it sorted? fuel pump just letting you know its getting tired ,it could do this off and on for several years

so i guess you have your battery confirmed as ok ? what i would do now is remove the earth and +ve connections and give them a good clean and make sure the connections are firm especially at the starters bolt and where the earth connects to the gearbox casting, now you need to establish...

i had similar situation last year, i thought it was a wheel bearing,i even purchased 2 bearings but couldn't decide which ones to replace,so i didnt actually replace them, in the mean time i bought a set of brand new wheels and tyres on ebay at a great price , when i fitted them , it was like...

for future ref :there is a hole in the back plates, and using a screwdriver allows you to wind back the adjusters enabling easier removal of the drums.

ciderdrinker,,i just reread your initial post, is your tuning box connected to the fuel rail sensor wiring? if so give the connections a good looking at, if you have a poor connection you will get poor running and misfiring

was about to suggest the subframe mount, here is link on how i repaired mine http://www.landyzone.co.uk/lz/f9/cracked-chassis-repair-no-welding-243704.html

have you checked the wiring to the fuel rail sensor ? which fuel pump did you replace ?

another area to look at is the roof- the black trim above the tailgate is held on by a galvanized piece of steel, the steel is screwed inplace, i found that the piece if steel had corroded to exess, and allowed water to run in through the screw holes, to fix i removed the steel, filled the...

good that you found a split hose , not to costly, the water in the boot is another common issue, take a look at the door seal, run a cup full of water down the seal and watch where it goes, paying particular attention to the joint at the bottom, if its running inside at that point, just cut...

good luck, if i can think of anyting else i will post , but still thinking fuel pump at mo