Do you want a switch that will prevent the engine from being started but will knacker your alternator if used when the engine is running, or do you want a switch that will prevent the engine from being started and can also be used to kill the engine when it's already running?

It is definitely M10 x 1.5, just ran a die down my manifold studs the other month. I actually bought a helicoil kit to do mine off amazon, but then found there was still enough thread left

So even on the bench it keeps going with no power to the spade terminal once started?

Get the tracking done

So it's either: clutch, gearbox input shaft, gearbox output shaft, transfer box. My guess would be the gearbox output shaft splines are worn away. With the transfer box in neutral, does it feel any different when you try to drive in gear to when the transfer box is engaged in high/low?

Bugger, I spent ages on that! This photo seems to show it

Really? The nut/stud is right behind the turbo, no line of sight to it at all as far as I could see on mine so not sure how you would get a socket on

Don't think he's taken the head off?

That nut is an absolute bastard, took me ages to get it off. If you go from the front of the engine, you should be able to get a spanner on it almost horizontal and turn until it goes past the vertical, how far depends how long/skinny your arms are!

But if you check it all that often then you don't get the fun of things going BANG when you really really don't have time! :p Add tyre pressures, clean radiator if you've been in mud recently, stock up on driving snacks

Always worth checking oil levels if you've got time

I thought all drum braked rear axles were 10 spline out of the factory? 10 vs 24 spline refers to the number of splines on the diff end of the shaft, not the wheel end

Yes, as I showed in the video yesterday, you should be able to rotate one wheel if all diffs are open. I reckon you either have massive transmission wind-up, or you've knackered the centre diff. By reversing backwards yesterday side to side it should have encouraged the front and back wheels to...

Apart from the belt, I would bet that every other item in that kit is made by britpart. That was the case with the 300TDi kit when I asked a few months back

Yes they are rotational. I would have thought option A is the wrong one, when I had 2 of my insas put on the wrong way they were beyond awful on the road, definitely worse than normal (which is pretty damn bad anyway). Just put the spare on where it's needed, then get to a garage when you can...

You can get a bit of wind up that makes them not want to come out of diff lock. Reversing for a while in a bit of a zig zag has always fixed it for me in the past, obviously you need the linkage adjusted correctly for that to work

Bummer. No need to take the head off, just remove the rocker shaft and check the push rods are straight. Likelyhood is you will have bent a few of them and need to replace them. Then it's just a normal timing belt change You'd be unlucky to need to do anything more than that

I would have considered the doors but you're too far away. Missed out on some on eBay last weekend for £7.50 :(

Looks like some textbook landy owner wiring!

Yep, it should be pretty stiff. If you get some pliars/mole grips vertically on the arm that the rod attaches to, you should be able to rotate/twist them to open and close wastegate.