Sounds like your water pump bearings have collapsed, you will need another pump or recovery.

To fit the new belt, get it on all the pulleys except the tensioner pulley (the smooth one with holes in). Then make sure it's nice and tight. Get a 15mm spanner out, put it on the tensioner pulley nut with the tail of the spanner going out to the right as you look at it. The pull up on the...

Depends if it's been done up properly! The one I just did came off with half a grunt on a ratchet. Never failed to get one off with a breaker bar, so a decent rattle gun shouldn't struggle.

Yup, parts suppliers online list those as top bearings for NON ABS vehicles only.

What part numbers have you bought? I'm aware of 3 different set ups for the top bearing. 10 spline axles with a raiko bush, earlier 24 spline with a bearing and 'top hat' sort of swivel pin, later (TD5 etc) 24 spline with a swivel pin that has tapered edges and is a bastard to get in straight.

Journeys up to 100 miles: Fire extinguisher 5L of water Jump leads Many cable ties Halfords 150 piece socket set Fuses Bulbs Spare serpentine belt Also, because they are in the toolbox and I happen to keep that in the car: cipclip pliers mole grips normal pliers big and small electrical...

The fact that's it's britpart OEM really means nothing. It could be anyone OEM, in this case they are just a supplier. Personally I'd go with the bearmach one, there's no reason that they should be expensive they are just a bit of tube with ends fitted on them.

I've had a couple of tests where it was failed, then passed 5 minutes later. One failed because I had forgotten to tighten the handbrake, he did the whole test, tightened the adjuster for me then gave me a pass certificate. Also one very nice MOT bloke where at the start of the test he told me...

Here's some shpiel off the website for you. They are very popular for hardcore off roaders, used as a starting battery and as a deep cycle battery for winching etc.

Bump

You just need a 1/2" ratchet.

Depends if it has grown or been cut back I guess. I needed a winch to get down there after I misjudged how soft it was, and stupidly went laning on my own. No rear winch so I had to keep going forwards.

What are you in? There's one in five oak green which is quite interesting, definitely walk it before you drive it though. It's tight as a nun's chuff, I managed quite a bit of bodywork damage to my old 90 when I tried it a couple of years back. Of course the obligatory message, if you want...

So do I just need a pair of aftermarket thick flanges? I have a pair of early rear ashcroft shafts which obviously I am quite keen to fit, just not sure how!

Why is that? Is the bolt spacing different on the flanges? And is there any parts out there that are suitable to do it?

Quick follow up, can I fit the halfshafts which take a thick drive flange along with a thick drive flange to my TD5 axles, which originally take a shorter shaft with thin flange?

Have you got any experience with dunking those boxes? The ones I have found are IP55 rated, though I guess you could give them a healthy dose of silicon on the joins etc. I'm a bit worried about it getting dunked, taking in water then it not draining out again

I've got the same setup, and a slightly bent washer. Don't see it as being a problem. I think my shocks max out before anything else binds, if not then they must be very close. So by changing the arms you won't really gain much more drop, so prop length wouldn't be a problem. Get the calculator...

It's a 200TDi engine out of a range rover, from sometime between '92 and late '94.

Flexi tends to go brittle after it's got hot, then it snaps. Should last for a while though. Are you sure that marine stuff isn't meant to be kept wet to keep the temperature down?