I think even the V6 may be the same, the ratio is the same on the rear diff and they like to use established parts whenever possible. As far as I know it's only the IRD that changed on the V6. Rebuild would be easy enough if it was not for the need to re-shim for correct lash in...

Have fun:D

Quote from the Handbook "Handset resynchronisation If the handset fails to lock or unlock the car, this may be because the coded signal transmitted by the handset, and the signal expected by the alarm control unit are no longer synchronised. To resynchronise the handset, operate either...

Don't go further than pulling out IRD till you're sure. Once you have IRD out you can check the connector spline in place in the gearbox, might also need to pull the L/H driveshaft for a better view. there's a recent post with pics (from matt1295 I think)of the problem, will post details when...

There is a security feature that ignores the remote if its used repeatedly, and there is a simple enough fix for that, if I can find it I'll post again.

OK, sounding like an output shaft bearing in the gearbox or VCU support bearings, could even be IRD bearing/s, but check with revs to about 3000 while sitting in neutral to eliminate gearbox input shaft bearing/s. That's not definitive though as there could be other minor faults. You could try...

Clutch disc might distort when hot, just enough drag to prevent engaging gears

Not necessarily the IRD, could be the L/H output shaft connector spline in the gearbox. same symptoms as diff fault except I would have thought diff would mangle internals of ird with bits finding their way out. Have you checked for bits on the magnetic drain plug? Don't forget to undo the...

It should be OK if you put in the correct amount, but you have no way of telling. If you put in too much the worst that will happen is it will come back out of the breather or it might leak a bit if the seals are worn. If you put in 1 L it will be enough as the 1.1L would fill a dry IRD

Do you mean coasting in neutral? or just sitting still in neutral?

as Hippo's picture shows there is still enough good flats close to the bottom. If you have a single hex socket, make sure there is no lead-in on the business end of the socket, I have been known to grind a socket down to achieve it, then you can get the socket hex right down onto the remaining...

Is there any variation with different gears?

Any idea whats broke?

+1 splined link IRD needs to come out for verification

If there is still drive to the rear wheels then the major components of the IRD are still in place, but there is either a stripped spline or broken output shaft, or a stripped or broken diff gear, the diff housing is still intact as the input shaft would otherwise move out of it's bearing cup...

As drivers, you and your wife need to understand what warning lights mean. If you don't have an Owner's Manual, you should find one on line and read it thoroughly to understand the vehicle you are driving. The TC and HDC(car pointing downhill) are functions of the ABS(anti-lock braking system)...

Actually, the inner spline is the output shaft for the L/H front wheel, it connects to the front diff inside the IRD. If there was still drive to the rear when VCU was removed, then something is broken or stripped in the diff inside the IRD

Bent valve/s?

Not enough info I'm afraid. Need to know where the "problem" is. Could be just the drop links on each end which is a simple job but if it's the bushes on the bars it's easier to remove the crossmember for the front one. HOWEVER, this requires very good support for the body while you work...

On a brighter note, the cleanup job looks good, rust does not appear to have gone inside of the critical component mounting circle, if you are sure it has not, you may be safe enough rust proofing them and re-assembling for a few more miles.