Drop arm will only go in one position so that's ok, probably just had the UJ's fitted wrongly. Apart from the rust, getting the clamp undone on mine was not too bad but be careful not to damage the input shaft. If it were not for the airbag I'd say do the wheel but that stuff worries me ;)

Never tried revving mine past 3000 :eek:

Yes that sounds good, wheel needs to be moved but more likely the universal joint on the PAS box input needs pulling off and resetting which would probably be easier than pulling the steering wheel due to airbag. At least you now know that everything from PAS box to wheels is aligned and...

Need to check if she's boosting at all on the turbo, check the hoses etc.

On top of fuel injection pump for diaphragm, got a small black pipe coming from turbo. You could possibly pull hose off of intercooler from turbo, run engine and give it a quick blip on throttle, should get a whoosh of air blowing out, or you can squeeze hose while revving it a bit, hose should...

Nice one:)

Make sure you get the right sort of string :)

Turbo kicks in about 1750 or so, maybe an air leak in the pressure pipe to injector pump, or the diaphragm has been tweaked the wrong way, or leaky turbo pipes. Check the turbo output as mine was flat when bought turned out it was because it had no blasted fins on the turbo itself so no boost...

Have you measured the distance from wheel to wheel, if it's out as much as you say then it would be easy to check with a tape measure. Sounds very odd

Yes but as it says, it has reached its 100,000 target, and the debate was on 15 November, don't know what the result was. Probably had another 3-line whip and ****ed all over it, that's how democracy runs in this country. Oh and yes it should be in general or anything goes I think.

It should just be from the swivel so oil or one-shot, mine was making a mess on inside of wheel and mot guy was not happy, the diff oil should be held back by an oil seal in the neck of the swivel where the drive shaft enters. The only hard parts are the swivel bolts, they are tight and also...

I've just spent too long doing mine, both sides leaking. Also upgraded to vented discs and new calipers too. The swivel seals are a bitch to get to. Do yourself a big favour and buy a snap-on 14mm long-series ring spanner. Don't get no cheap crap as it is oing to be worked to its limit getting...

Torque wrench is not needed, the bearings run with end-float so will be zero torque or practically, measuring end-float is bloody hard to any accuracy. The hand method and practice works very well, tried and tested. A torque wrench capable of measuring the 4nm (I think that was the setting) is...

But it's finished???

Grumbling and squeal don't sound good from a bearing. Did you replace the bearing races too, these are the steel rings that the bearing runs in, if you only change the bearing itself it won't live long.

That's what i said ;)

How did you set the end play? Should be done up tight, spin wheel to settle bearings, back off a quarter then do up barely hand tight. I always bung the wheel on and test for wobble, should be just a tiny bit of play. Then lock up the lock washer bending one bit back and one bit forwards.

Ooh that would be like a grating, whining noise that occurs at all speeds then ;)

Do you need HD? Std is cheaper and lighter, just as easy to fit. When undoing old rod ends, you need two hammers, undo the nuts half way, put one hammer on one side of the casting that holds the tapered part of the rod end, then whack the opposite side good and hard, this normally pops the...

Oh and yes, probably time for a new damper.