davidcorden02
New Member
Hi all my front hub seal is leaking i was going to tackle the job of changing it myself is it easy to do and where can i find a step by step guide on doing so cheers dave..........
Sir DD of Cumbria
New Member
http://www.landyzone.co.uk/lz/f41/swivel-ball-renewal-63808.html
This is a guide that i used before I did mine, In future use the search function can save time .... and abuse
This is a guide that i used before I did mine, In future use the search function can save time .... and abuse
davidcorden02
New Member
nice one cheers i did but i searched swivel hub lol cheers again
Sir DD of Cumbria
New Member
Thats where you went wrong its a swivel ball seal
Also, take a look at busters photo guide section on the main forum page, its the one with the red landy badge to the left of the screen.
Full of handy photoguides and tips
Also, take a look at busters photo guide section on the main forum page, its the one with the red landy badge to the left of the screen.
Full of handy photoguides and tips
davidcorden02
New Member
cheers pal would you say its a easy/hard job to do
Sir DD of Cumbria
New Member
Time consuming more than difficult I'd say give the area a good pressure washing before you start and clean the parts in parrafin before replacing (not the bearings though) and as above a 12 point 1/2 inch socket for the caliper bolts
davek0974
Well-Known Member
I've just spent too long doing mine, both sides leaking. Also upgraded to vented discs and new calipers too.
The swivel seals are a bitch to get to. Do yourself a big favour and buy a snap-on 14mm long-series ring spanner. Don't get no cheap crap as it is oing to be worked to its limit getting the balls off the axle. I broke two lesser spanners trying.
In the end a simple job of replacing two £4 oil seals cost me over £350 notes, I also fitted new swivels as the old ones were pitted, then the brake discs, calipers, new driving members, new top pins and bearings, new brake hoses, flaring kit to make pipes up, loads of swearing, more swearing, grazed knuckles, caliper bolts, one-shot lube, loctite and some more swearing, the swivel-axle bolts are tight!
The swivel seals are a bitch to get to. Do yourself a big favour and buy a snap-on 14mm long-series ring spanner. Don't get no cheap crap as it is oing to be worked to its limit getting the balls off the axle. I broke two lesser spanners trying.
In the end a simple job of replacing two £4 oil seals cost me over £350 notes, I also fitted new swivels as the old ones were pitted, then the brake discs, calipers, new driving members, new top pins and bearings, new brake hoses, flaring kit to make pipes up, loads of swearing, more swearing, grazed knuckles, caliper bolts, one-shot lube, loctite and some more swearing, the swivel-axle bolts are tight!
davidcorden02
New Member
Oh right that ain't good could lead to bolt snapping. You no when it leeks oil is it the oil from the diff or is it just the grease / oil from the swivel hub ?
davek0974
Well-Known Member
It should just be from the swivel so oil or one-shot, mine was making a mess on inside of wheel and mot guy was not happy, the diff oil should be held back by an oil seal in the neck of the swivel where the drive shaft enters.
The only hard parts are the swivel bolts, they are tight and also have loctite on them. I undone most of mine by putting the long spanner on then applying a lot of pressure with my foot, not kicking it but pressing hard. Once they go it's ok, some needed a good couple of whacks on the spanner with a copper/lead hammer to crack the loctite, that is why a really good spanner is useful. Rebuilding the hubs was a doddle and as it was all new or cleaned up, reassembly was good too. You can't torque the bolts, just whack them up good and tight with some loctite on.
You will need a M10 tap to clean the crap out of all the threads before sticking it all back as loctite does not like sticking to old loctite.
The only hard parts are the swivel bolts, they are tight and also have loctite on them. I undone most of mine by putting the long spanner on then applying a lot of pressure with my foot, not kicking it but pressing hard. Once they go it's ok, some needed a good couple of whacks on the spanner with a copper/lead hammer to crack the loctite, that is why a really good spanner is useful. Rebuilding the hubs was a doddle and as it was all new or cleaned up, reassembly was good too. You can't torque the bolts, just whack them up good and tight with some loctite on.
You will need a M10 tap to clean the crap out of all the threads before sticking it all back as loctite does not like sticking to old loctite.
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davidcorden02
New Member
Cheers for that matey
