Thanks again, got it now, sounds like fun, not. :)

I got the same age one, Paddocks Teflon coated was the ones I fitted, been good so far, no signs of wear etc and not a drip of oil:) Course, they might be empty;)

Brilliant, mines only on 138k, I can look forward to much better figures when she's run in then :D

Anyone know how to sync a one-button fob, might as well do that at the same time.

Thanks for that, same type of battery too, does look a bit fatter than one in there now. I take it that I should have the doors unlocked/alarm off then disconnect. Is the four clicks on the lock button for a one-button remote??

27-35 on my manual d1 1995 vintage, I don't carry any crap in the back and drive like a nanny though :)

That makes no sense, disconnecting either pos or neg will break the circuit therefore once one is off the other might as well be, not arguing like, it's just basic electrics theory. Thanks for all the tips guys, should be here tomorrow hopefully, maybe weds allowing for the lovely weather :)...

Just a quickie, this cold snap has finally killed my battery, only just managed to get her going this morning so i thought i'd treat her to a nice shiny new one, old one is stamped 2005 so not bad i guess. Got one from Performance Batteries on the way, good price too, 640CCA for £58 delivered...

Surely that only disconnects the transfer box from the gearbox? The front and back props are still connected via mid diff?

It's not the paint, it's the fact that it's painted and not fabric covered! It looks 100% until you touch it and realise it not fabric.:rolleyes::rolleyes:

Yep, pull it all out, scrape and pull off the fabric and the crappy foam gunge underneath, get it good and clean and bung on a few coats of bathroom/kitchen emulsion in a matt or silk finish - looks like a new lining until you touch it. Did mine in light steel grey colour, there's a thread on...

Sounds good, from what I learnt in a Bosch manual, the star wheel only affects the point at which the boost fuel kicks in from turbo pressure. The diaphragm position would have a large effect for you as well as the screw. Good to see its working though

It wont be the sealer inside, water has to be stopped getting in and you can't do that internally. There are some leak points above the rear door, basically all road the damn gutter and under it, check for pinholes too.

Getting good results from Grabber AT2's on my disco. Pressure at 38psi.

Thats the ****er!, stupid place for a joint. Clean it well up and seal it then seal the gutter trim on to, the gutter trim acts as a drip-rail but if the water gets behind it it will funnel the wet straight into that damn joint, it was a bitch to figure out. The it would be worth masking the...

Try here... http://www.landyzone.co.uk/lz/f8/wheres-water-getting-197085.html

Oh, and I've also resealed both sunroofs to the roof, and also sealed the glasses to the sunroof frame and unplugged the motors.

Next have a look at the air vents that are hidden behind the off side dickie seat, my rear side window needs a new rubber and is letting water into the void between the panels, it was landing on the vents and ****ing inside, I fitted a little plastic sheet hood over the vent then stuffed it back...

Yes I can tell you exactly where to check first as I had the same fault and spent ages on it. Unclip the plastic gutter trim strip outside, near the rear corner, there will be a join in the roof panels which is hidden in the gutter itself, this join is wonderfully covered/sealed with nothing...

Looks like the oil cooler pipes, they go from the radiator to the oil filter block.