Top pic is the AC compressor. Don't know about the plug..

Are those pics recent? I recall a user in RR.net having the exact same problem and, at the time, TF said something about a manufacturing problem that had since been solved. If that's recent, I guess they never solved it :(

How were they branded (britpart, allmakes,...)?

I own a pre-MAF DSE so I haven't tested this myself. But I'm sure you'll agree that, from the 1st thread I linked to, it would look like that was fixed in 1.20 ? I'm sorry I lead JohnnyCrash in the wrong way :/

According to the BBS forum, the MAF sensor reading was fixed in 1.20. That firmware was released in the 8th of February. Sources: http://nanocom.blackbox-solutions.com/index.php/forum/26-edc/920-air-temperature-value and...

What software version are you running on the Nanocom ? Latest one is 1.21 and IIRC, the problem with the MAF sensor reading an incorrect temperature was solved in 1.20.

Which diagnostics tool are you using? One of the latest nanocom updates fixes that problem.

Google isn't helping here so I guess I'll just have to download the other copy of RAVE. If I'm reading into this correctly, I just need to remove the seal and bend the flange outwards, so that it will move the rubber towards the upper and bottom rear doors, thus providing a better fit and seal ?

Does anyone have the TSB number ? My local version of RAVE doesn't have the TSBs and I'm on slow internet here and it would take me a day to download the one from the Howto section. With the TSB number I may just get lucky googling it.

So, my P38 apparently has a leak through the rear door seal, because every now and then my boot is full of water. I had a look around the seal today and it is very wet on the part that should be sealing against the boot door so I believe that's where the problem lies. Looking around for a...

It may be buzzing but not putting out enough air pressure. Try disconnecting the blue pipe that goes from the compressor into the valve block and see if you can block the air with your finger. If you can stop it, it's not producing enough pressure.

Did you solve the overheating after replacing the stat ?

I don't own a Faultmate but I have a Nanocom, so I guess the procedure is the same. To read the BECM I place the key on position 2 but the engine must be off. If it's running the Nanocom won't talk to it.

Sent you a PM.

I stand corrected.

If I recall correctly, the later types ABS ECU is in the engine compartment. For the older ones, pre 4 wheel TC, the ECU is behind the glove box compartment in the LHD models. Not sure for RHD.

If you fit ANR 2239 you'll get rear wheel TC. Fitting the later modulator (4 wheel TC) is possible but you'll have ABS errors on the dash and IMHO, is not worth the hassle. There's a post somewhere on RR.net from a owner who did it.

Well, you have to be a little paranoid when thinking about preventive maintenance. My previous battery lasted 3 years. On other cars I've owned from new, I've seen batteries last between 7 and 9 years. Doing the math, it seems more beneficial to replace the alternator now than to have to replace...

So, I replaced the battery and all is well now but while I was playing with the Nanocom I noticed the expectable battery voltage drop with the main lights on. So I thought, let's see how low I can get it to. With everything turned on (everything being dipped beans, main beans, heater running the...

Wammers, I'd appreciate having a look at that bulletin, if you can find it.