So what was it? Valley gasket air leak?

Looks very like my truck!!

Anyway. This happened. Came out easy enough, jacked the gearbox up a bit to help break the seal by wiggling the engine. Out it came. Power wash and tidy up the chassis and engine bay next.

I know jim. At least I've been out and bought stuff from him before, great to have him there for advice. SU's may strangle a v8 but my fuel system and lpg is tried and tested and works reliably. I have to break my cam in and want to know it will start first time when I do it. If I can afford...

Eight weeks enforced idleness and a project sitting on the driveway? Couldn't help myself.

Lol! It's not going anywhere until I'm happy with my engine running on carbs! I was planning to use it but an operation on my spine has left me out of work for eight weeks and it will be cheaper to use carbs initially to get the truck back on the road. If I can afford to keep it I will.

It will probably end up on ebay with a £1 starting price. It's located in Northern Ireland so it will cost a packet to ship the thing anywhere.

WORTH? If this is considered Spam then I will delete it. I have a 3.9 hotwire manifold, plenum, loom, ecu, maf and all the other bits which I've decided not to use. I was going to try to sell it as I've decided for simplicity's sake to use my trusty SU carbs on my engine. But how much should I...

I've left that in. What's the technique? Lift it up at the front first? Remove engine mounts?

Doing an engine swap. I've disconected the cooling system, electrics, fuel system, earth strap and removed eight bellhousing bolts as well as the cover underneath. Both engine mounts undone too. Am I ready to lift out or am I missing something? Starter need to come out? Not done this before.

As suspected! Thanks for that!

I'm doing an engine swap on my 110, from 3.5 v8 to 3.9 serpentine v8. These engines use different Alternators. The current lucas one has a plug like this: Which has to connect to this on the new alternator Any tips? Two thick browns which I guess are B+ And a thinner brown/yellow? Battery...

I'm currently recovering from an op on my spine so in not allowed the crawl around under cars for a few weeks. Fitting it to the bulkhead allowed me to fix the problem semi temporarily while not putting my back under too much strain. I need the petrol system to work so I can break in the new cam...

I fitted the pump to the bulkhead next to the heater just to see if it would pull that far and it worked fine. Easier to plumb in from there too. Top Tip!!

Cheers for that cooltide.

Thanks for that. Using the search function has brought up comma sonic 20/50 as a good option. Will try my local comma stockist for some of that.

Yes cam, lifters and the rockers and push rods are all smeared in Crower camshaft grease already. What I'm looking for is a readily available motor oil with lots of zddp to fill the sump with.

Getting ready to fit my 3.9 engine with it's new camshaft. Can anyone recommend a good break in oil or additive that is available in the uk? Only finding US suppliers online.

As this will be drawing through the original in tank pump I was hoping that the pick up filter on that would be enough. The in tank pump is a recent OEM landrover unit that got killed when I ran out of petrol but kept driving on lpg causing it to run dry.

Cheers waldamar. I will have a look on the inside of the rail to see if I have space. I don't want to be dropping the tank out again on my own as its a pig of a job on the driveway, so I'm looking for a position that is easy to fit the pump wire and plumb it in without stripping the car.