ive used lr series before had a couple of queries like only one gasket sent not two and the wrong window seals but emailed and got answers back pretty quick and new correct parts within a day or so cant really fault the service..

that sounds like the voltage regulator, its on the back of the dash looks like a rectangular tin can..

get a pic up of the center console and i'm sure some one will tell you what the switches are for if they are factory fit..

have you found the missing inch off of the push rod?????

try lr series.. get part no.s from parts book prob find it as a download on here somewhere... also paddocks and craddocks do them..

jc had a similar prob with mine.. it ended up being a dodgy pipe from the fuel tank to the pump it had a tiny hole that didnt lead fuel but did suck air... was pulling my hair out too... good to see you back at it tho.. wish i could get out to finish mine..

download the parts book and plan jobs there are no standard bolts on a series as said you have metric, imperial and whit but not only that you have different shank lengths as well as bolt lengths by all means buy a hand full of bits and bobs but shanks are there for a reason..

got a hard top and sides (no windows in sidesthe hard top needs a bit of tlc) bristol..

got two three stud (one repaired one off an engine recently might need some new studs) pm me.. the only mot station i use is venture tyres just up from bristol dogs home but not taken the landy there yet.. used them for all my other motors tho..

strip and clen the contacts in the hazard switch..

is it three or four bolt??..

had mine done by a place in bristol called dtm think they charged about £25 per injector no. is 01179710203

if it's dual circuit look for a pair of either white or black and white cables going down to the imbalance switch down on the drivers sie of the chassis if it go's open circuit your light will come on so could be a dodgy cable or connector.

lr series or paddocks will do kits take a look

11 inch fronts should be the twin leading shoe type..

with the tappits if they have been left unadjusted for some time then they hammer the valves and mushroom them as well as getting an imprint on the rockers .. can make it near impossible to set.. had to change all of mine.. and needed to take the head into workshop as could not get valves out...

footwells are not structural so should sufice for short term as long as the piilars are not too bad..

if you have 11 inch rears you should defo change the 10 inch fronts as for legal reasons the fronts should lock up first and be more powerfull than the rears, would be an mot fail as is..

some rev counters work of of the w terminal on the back of the alternator..

also check pipes for air leaks as if you are sucking air in before the pump you wont get no fuel..